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Thread: lets kick this puppy off!!!

  1. #1
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    Talking lets kick this puppy off!!!

    Ok, so here's the deal....

    I'm a new C&R holder and though I have read these (as in gun/reloading sites on the web) forums for years, my hands-on experience is limited to Lee Loaders.

    I like the Lee for my .44 spl/mag with store bought bullets and the 30-06 likewise, but these last two weeks have forced me to gear up all at once.

    You see, I had plans for that C&R and put both feet in, as my budget got right.

    Yugo SKS, Yugo 48, m/n 91/30, m/n 38, Swiss k31 and oh yea, a really nice, if unplanned for, FN Belgium m35 Mauser in 7.65.

    Every one of these are going to need feeding and so I went with Lee dies, press(s), case prep and powder measure/dippers as starting tools.

    I also have an RCBS 505 and Redding trickle and know how to use them

    For a melting set up, a Wal-Mart hot plate and an RCBS iron pot with dipper. I also have a small iron smelting pot with a rounded bottom and will keep using that as well.

    For wws' a stainless kitchen pot, unhandled and decommissioned years ago!

    I ordered up the RCBS .44-250k two holer I’ve lusted for these last few years and will never, ever buy another .44 cast bullet again.

    Yea me!

    From the Lee line 324-175-1r, 312-185-1r and the 312-155-1r.

    I think these will cover everything, for now, but if not I'd sure like to hear back. I’ve heard the opinion that the Lee .30 caliber bullets do not do well in the 30-06.

    Truth or Fiction?

    I would like to find a good, light cast bullet for a 25-06 Remington but otherwise, I think I'm set-up for my first attempts at casting/reloading for these rifles.

    There are, of course, other odds-and-ends, like Marvelux, calipers and micrometer (Frankford and Hornady) mica and, oh yea, a RCBS Berdan decapper.

    I really don't know how much use that last item will get, but I do pick up brass at the range and if I can, I will reload the two-hole monsters.

    I ordered some 7.5 Swiss (GP-11) from Aim and wonder out-loud if I will be able to reload this stuff?

    What Berdan primer wills I need for the stuff and where can I find more info on using/buying these primers? Any info links?
    I did get new brass for most, but for the 7.65 Belgium, I ordered a couple of boxes of Graffs' Hornady 7.65 loads. The 7.62x54r gets forty bright, new rounds of Winchester and I hope to get several reloads from that brass.

    Do any of you know about resizing 30-06 brass to 7.65 Belgium, using the same method as for the Win. 284 brass to 7.5 Swiss?

    Can the Lee die handle that chore, or should I call for a RCBS Resizing Die?

    For reference books, the Lee book and Lyman’s' 48th, Lyman’s' cast handbook and Loadbooks I have on hand. I also have a small number of powder suppliers’ data booklets and a 5th edition of “The ABC’s of Reloading”.

    How am I doing so far?

    I did not order any sizing dies, as I want to slug the barrels first, and I really do not have the budget for a 'hard' lube/sizer. I will go for the Lee sizer kits, but if I wanted to use these bullets without sizing, how do I attach the gas checks?

    Do I need to use gas checks all the time with these rifles/loads? What are the limits of velocity with these cast bullets/rifles?

    I am hoping to use the Lee liquid Alox for now and I have looked at the homemade soft lube on 'Cast Boolits' with interest.

    Lee universal dies for opening up case mouths and decapping and a Lee hand priming tool, with shell holders.

    Will this priming tool handle Berdan cups?

    I've hoped to stick to the Alliant Powder line, so I can keep things simple to start out with, though I am given to understand that the Lee book uses Hodgdon data so I cannot say that is a hard, fast rule.

    Any thoughts?

    I haven’t decided if I can afford a ‘crony’ yet, but Midway sent me an email/flyer today advertising the F1/F1 Master on sale at 'dealer' rates.

    Can I work out accurate modern loads without the use of one of these in your opinion?

    If so, what methods should I employ?

    Even though I only use iron sights and am not setting out to be a sub-moa benchrest or competition shooter, I really want to hear any suggestions you might have on any aspect of this reloading hobby and the guns, tools and toys involved. I love to shoot and as has been said often been said elsewhere “only accurate rifles are interesting “so I want to do what I can to get the best from my guns.

    Cheers,
    Eli

  2. #2
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    eli: I'm guessing you would have generated several responses if you had posted this on the "Cast boolits" protion of this site.. Try going there and referring to this post,rather than re-doing the whole thing.. good luck, onceabull
    "The Eagle is no flycatcher"

  3. #3
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    Thanks Onceabull.

    I kind of figured that it would be slow going, but this forum is new and I will give it a few more days.

    After that, I'll see if I can get a post up on CB's and see what happens.

    Cheers,
    Eli

  4. #4
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    Wow what a list hehe.

    First thing that comes to mind is the 7.5 swiss, you can get boxer norma brass for it, I would not mess with the berdan unless you HAVE to, the primers from what I have seen cost a LOT more than boxer. Old western scrounger sells berdan primers

    I'm an opiniated cuss but I'd leave the cap on the marvelux forever, the stuff makes everything rust like mad. I suppose you could use it for smelting in bulk outside.

    You have the chance right now to start off right, buy power 8lbs at a time, and primers 5k at a time at least, Grafs still pays the hazmat for you if you buy 32 lbs. I like Hogden Extreme powders because they are not temp sensitive, but I have not yet used them for cast boolits. Same deal on the gaschecks, get in on a group buy and buy 5k each of 30 and 8mm......enjoy the savings right off the bat. Surplus powders are a great bargian too and I would sure explore them if I were you.

    some folks Veral Smith included say that when using gas check boolits without gas checks that grex shotshell buffer as a filler helps greatly.

    there is a start

    Bill
    Both ends WHAT a player

  5. #5
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    Thanks for the feedback Bill.

    You know...I may just keep the Marvelux for bulk smelts only. I have beeswax on hand and just the other night tried some in a small melt. It did not smoke half as bad as I thought it would. The idea of unnecessarily adding to equipment problems (rust) is a real put off and I'm just cheap enough to want my gear to last forever.

    Speaking of cheap, I've noticed that automotive and household cleaners, solvents, etc are being used by shooters/reloaders and C&R holders for several different things.

    Do you have any favorites for mold or rifle cleaning, etc?

    What sort of savings on group buys of gas checks and other items are the norm?

    What sort of rule of thumb should be used, when using buffers/fillers in metallic cases, to figure out pressures?

    Cheers,
    Eli

  6. #6
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    Myself for cleaning I just use plain old Hoppes #9 or shooters choice/kroil mixed 50-50, and hoppes BR-9 for removing copper, I do not go thru more than a medium sized bottle in 2-3 years. I will give Eds Red a try if I get round to making some.

    The fillers it would best if you ask over on cast boolits from the guys using them all the time.

    I know on powder that I see for example Clays is 111.00 for 8 lbs from Graf's, I bought what I thought was a 1lb can to try the powder, turns out it is 14 oz (thats all that will fit) and it cost 18.00 retail so that equates out to 111.00/164.00 or a 33% savings. From what I recall on the gas checks they saved 50% or more.

    If you find the gun store that sells componants to trap shooters you will see some good buys on powders those guys use, there is one near here that sells Clays and other shotgun/pistol/rifle powders for 13.00 a lb.

    It is NICE however to just HAVE componants on hand, the price on them never really goes down, and they will keep for a lifetime if stored cool and dry. Some of the surplus powders will run out and then they will no longer be avail.

    Bill
    Both ends WHAT a player

  7. #7
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    Default Berdan primers are available

    Graf's recently imported a lot of Russian berdan primers, size .217. The price was right in line with boxer primers; they may still have some in stock. If not, maybe we can find a way for you to get a few from me; I got 5,000 when they came in. Graf's also gives you a dealer discount if you have a C&R FFL.
    Dan in NC

  8. #8
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    Bill, what surplus powders would you suggest I look at first?

    As to Ed's Red, I downloaded the mixing directions a few days ago and will likely use this to clean these new rifles. I also like the Hoppes #9 by-the-way, but I think the Red stuff will be my best bet on these long guns.

    Dan, I am also in NC, (Charlotte). Thanks for the offer to share your stock of Berdan primers. If I can't find the right ones elsewhere, I may just take you up on your offer. It may be that I can join one of the local gun clubs/ranges and order up some primers and powder through them.

    What are you using your Berdans to reload?

    Have you tried the Swiss GP-11 brass yet?


    Cheers,
    Eli

  9. #9
    GunLoad Trainee Maven's Avatar
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    Dan, One additional purchase to consider (You can save $$ by not purchasing a berdan decapper!) is a lead/casting thermometer, which will insure more uniform temps. + help you monitor your stove/furnace settings. As for some of the other questions:

    GP-11 is berdan primed. It would be easier to purchase .284Win. brass and reform/resize it to 7.5 x 55mm.

    You can buy a form die for .30-06 -> 7.65 x 53mm, but unless you get one at a bargain price, it can be expensive. Try this: First, cut the necks off .30-06 brass with a hack saw, but cut them no shorter than say 55-56mm. De-burr thoroughly and lube the outside as per FL sizing. With a 7.65 x 53mm FL die barely screwed into your press, and a trimmed pc. of '06 brass in your shellholder, raise the ram and turn the FL die in until you feel it contact the brass. Continue to screw it in ~1/2 turn at a time and raise the ram. Do this until the die, wi. brass inside, makes firm contact with the shellholder. Trim to 53mm and anneal. Btw, don't lube the top 3/8" of the trimmed shell else you'll get lube dents or worse on the as-yet-to-be-formed necks.

    Lee molds are excellent products, but their dimensions, at least for .30cal. bore-riding designs (e.g., C309-180R), may be incorrect for your .30-06. They are for mine. Their .30cal. "wadcutter" or "soupcan" mold & CB casts large enough so that you can size it to fit (Slug your bore first.) and is surprisingly accurate. Btw, the bore-riding nose on the .30cal. Lee mold is .299"-.300" when it should be at least .301" (so-so) or .302" (better).

    If you have a Lyman or RCBS lube-sizer (Look for a used #450 or RCBS 'Lub-a-Matic" on e-Bay.), you can purchase a gas-check seater from Lyman ($8.25) which will fit either machine. Lyman & RCBS sizing dies & nose punches fit either machine/are interchangeable.

    Gas-check bullet designs shoot best with GC's attached unless you hold velocity to <1,500fps. On the other hand, a plain-base rifle CB can be driven at least that fast with excellent results if it fits the rifle throat and carries enough lube. The latter must be of high quality too, e.g., "Felix Lube," NRA-formula alox & beeswax, Lyman "SuperMoly," etc.

    Marvelux: It is hygroscopic and that is a major PITA, because it forms hard lumps (like granulated sugar does). It's Marvelux's affinity for water that can cause rust rather than its composition per se. However, if you must cast indoors, it is odorless, smokeless and VERY effective. If you aren't casting indoors, ordinary candle wax works well too.

    Hope this helps, ...Maven

  10. #10
    GunLoad Trainee Maven's Avatar
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    Red face

    Sorry, I should have addressed my reply to Eli.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check        

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