Best Firearm Cleaning Product!!

[charger]

Spray it in at night. Push it out in the morning. Dry patch, DONE

[versifier]

Welcome charger. Glad you found us.
How does WipeOut react with the finish on wood stocks? Do you have to put the rifles muzzle-down? Or does it all stay put in the barrel?

[charger]

Welcome charger. Glad you found us.
How does WipeOut react with the finish on wood stocks? Do you have to put the rifles muzzle-down? Or does it all stay put in the barrel?

It doesnt react other than to say that its a bit sticky. I leave the chamber slightly higher than muzzle just by a degree or two. Now that you mention it I do tend to bronze brush the chamber fairly well after. When I first started using the stuff I didnt and whilst firing some hot 300 weath one stuck. Not to the point of seperation or anything, but darned sticky extraction, so from then on I've bronzed all traces away. It dont bug bluing either .It can just be lighter fluided off. I like it cause it works over night, and when shooting copper it removes every single smidge of it

[35Rem]

After using alot of different bore cleaners over the years, I now use WipeOut". It is a great product and is easy to use.

[MoldyJoe]

What are your thoughts on CLP. It was used by the Chair Force (USAF) for a while and they went away from it. Joe

[versifier]

Nothing wrong with CLP. Every so often I happen on some of it. Honestly, I'm not too picky about regular powder solvents. They mostly all do a decent job paired with a good brush and cotton patches. I'm forever ending up with partial bottles of this one or that one that my brother or I pick up in trading, so I just grab whatever's in front and use that. Some day I plan to make up a batch of Ed's Red, too. When I need to clean out copper or lead fouling, then I get picky and go for the Sweets or Rigg.

[M700P]

Food for thought!
Sweets as well as other powder solvents which use ammonia to remove copper fouling have been known to leave microscopic holes in the lands and groves in chrome molly & stainless steel barrels if left on to long. Generally this means any longer than recommended. The holes left behind tend to trap carbon, copper, and lead deposits making it so that the barrel needs to be cleaned more often to maintain it's accuracy. In most rifle barrels a noticeable drop off in accuracy can be seen in as little as 5 to 10 rounds. The shots tend to track up wards and to the right on the target. This is more prevalent in rifles where the barrels were never broken in properly.

Also, if these solvents are allowed to seep into the action of the rifle it will attack and destroy the bedding. We all know what this means for accuracy!
However, there is a real good product on the market that I use that doesn't use the same harmful ingredients as other manufactures and is %100 biodegradable, earth friendly, and is just as effective on copper fouling if not more. Bore Tech Eliminator, you may want to go to their website and check it out. http://www.boretech.com/products/eliminator.shtml
They can explain their product better than I can.

One last thing, when using any solvent that uses petroleum in it's make up should be followed up with a cleaner such as "Windex" to remove it. Petroleum turns to carbon when heated up in a barrel and will trap copper & lead deposits more quickly. I don't know about you guys, but I like shooting my rifles better than I like cleaning them. The less I have to the better. Just my two cents!

M700P

[yodar]

how does it work on blackpowder guns does it have any petroleum products in it

how well does it remove lead or copper


tom

Ballistol is a turn of the century German Coal-chemical discovery. It is beloved by BP'ers mixed 1:1 with water it becomes moosemilk to clean out BP salts and leave a thin film of ballistol to prevent corrosion

Tho it contains no copper dissolving chemicals (ballistol is a petroleum Ester) some say it CAN act like KROIL, which KREEPS and gets under and loosens metal fouling to be removed after a night's soak. I prefer MPro or it's rebadged Hoppe's ELITE name for copper removing

I could write an essay on Ballsitol
yodar

[yodar]

I just got turned on to a product called Flitz. I have cleaned 2 rifles and two pistols until I could white glove them, then used the cleaner and came away with rust colored cleaners. The second part is a type of carnuba wax guaranteed to protect for six months. One of the rifles was an 1873 springfield trap door that looks almost new now.

I just use an aerosol called CorrosionX to mist onto the gun and wipe out to an invisible film...It kept a press and dies out in the shed in a back yard from rusting here in Florida

yodar

[1Shirt]

Think I have tried just about every thing that has hit the market over the years, and am currently using the canned foams for jacketed, and Ed's Red for cast the few times I clean after shooting cast. Normally only if I get some leading. On some of the milsurps that I have bought over the years I have used and will continue to use Kroil heavily about 2-3 cleanings in a row befor I then go to canned foam for final, and then lite coat of lite oil, followed by one dry patch befor I take it to the range. That has worked well for me, and made some bbls that looked fair, look a whole lot better when they were throughly cleaned. The other thing I have done is to go almost to non brass bore brushes. Seems kind of funny to clean a jacketed blt fouled bbl with a brass brush and most solvents. Woke up to that fact a few years back when I looked at a brass brush a couple of days after I had cleaned a rifle with a strong solvent, and found it about 25% gone. Bottom line, what works for and satisfies me, may not the next guy. Kind of like the old saying "one mans trash is anothers treasure".
1Shirt!