Need load for cast .223 for NEF VARMIT

[single shot]

Hi all,

Newbie to the site. I have an old IDEAL bullet mold in .224 It cast a 50 grain bullet similar in shape to a Nossler V-Max but uses a gas check.

I am using clip on wheel weights as an alloy source. If need be , I can heat treat to a BHN of about 30.

I have a NEF VARMIT bull barrel in .223 that I would like to use this bullet in.

Any suggested loads would be helpful. I may shoot this bullet without a gas check to get a "Boat Tail" effect.

Whats your opinion, and suggestion?

Thanks.

[kg42]

Welcome aboard, singleshot.

I don't have first hand experience with that caliber and I suggest you cross check my data with a search next door on CastBoolits.

Hodgon's 25th Data Manual gives 13 grains of 4198 for 2091fps (23"bbl) as a max load.

Ed Matunas in his Metallic Cartridges Reloading gives:
5.5/7.7 of Unique for1550/2075fps
11/13.5 of IMR4227 for1775/2075fps

Paco Kelly has a few loads and compares the three Rem calibers in this article:
http://www.leverguns.com/articles/pa...ll_charges.htm

Without gaschecks I don't think you should exceed 22LR speeds without some caution regarding accuracy and leading.

I believe Bullshop Junior and/or d-o-k gave a few loads in the past too here; you can look at their profiles and search their old posts.

kg

[single shot]

Thanks a lot.


Bullshop Junior and/or d-o-k had a lot of info.

And I like this trick from Paco:

A Paco secret...
Here’s a trick I write about often...to get soft nose and hard body cast bullets, cast them hard and hot, frosty bullets are better no matter what the experts say... drop them from the mold into water to temper....then place your bullets standing in water to their shoulder just above the top crimp groove, so the nose is exposed....take a butane torch and run it over the noses sticking out of the water...this detempers just the noses, so you in effect have a soft nose-hard body, cast bullet. It takes a little practice...but as soon as you see the bullet noses change color at all, pull the flame...or the nose will slump over...it doesn’t take much flame time, especially on small caliber bullets. Cast bullets made this way will resist fouling but will expand in any size animal....from rabbits on up.

And I will use gas checks.

[kg42]

Glad I could help, let us know how it turns out.

[single shot]

Still waiting for the scope to arrive but I will keep you posted when I have some results.

[kg42]

I found some info in The Art of Bullet Casting, in an article by Jim Carmichel on the 222.

For a 50gr bullet ref 225415 :
4/5/6gr of Unique for 1600/1770/1920 fps
7/8/9/10gr of 2400 for 1600/1700/1860/1950 fps
10/11/12gr of 4227 for 1980/2132/2370 fps
In an other article he gives 15/17/18gr of 3031, the groups shrinking from 12 to 2 1/2 inches, still with the 222Rem (I didn't note the bullet weight).

Higher speeds than in the 223 are due to the smaller case.

Linotype is recommended above 1850 fps, as well as minimum sizing and great care in bullet segregation.
A trick is to off-center the sprue plate to an ellipse in order to improve filling and minimise the size of the sprue cut.
If your mold still doesn't fill well, I found that beagling improved things markedly (venting?), but watch the bullet diameter vs your chamber dimensions; I shoot "as cast" as often as possible but chambering is an issue in some guns.

kg

[murph]

I'm new here, currently casting and working on .223 bullets. 58 grain in Lyman #2 alloy w\gas check. I am casting up around 24 bri. Immediately had a problem. Casting much harder than mold made for so bullet is larger and lighter. Gas checks no longer fit. Have to use a mini lathe and turn down gas check seat about .003-.004. Pain in the butt. However, with these bullets, I can push them with accuracy and no leading up in high 2000 fps.

I like the suggestion for softening the nose of the bullet. That one hadn't occurred to me. Been experimenting with 2 part old lyman molds and casting soft points in regular molds.

[crowbeaner]

I have had the same problem with linotype and my Lyman 225415 mould; lino makes a great looking bullet but they are too big and the sizer deforms the nose and ogive. The gaschecks have to be partially applied by hand and seated with the gascheck seater and THEN sized which deforms the bullet. I had to go to #2 alloy made from fresh WW metal and 50/50 to get the right diameter that didn't deform. I won't be able to drive them as fast, and I'll have to use different powders to keep the velocity usable. I'm using a .225 die and Hornady checks. I haven't loaded any yet but will in the near future. I'll post the results and loads later. CB.