Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 21

Thread: .380 recipe

  1. #1

    Default .380 recipe

    I have looked all over the Internet (at least half of it anyway) and have yet to find a recipe for a load of .380 I want to throw together as soon as I get my Lee dies in this week.

    I already have some 95 grain cast round nose bullets and some Unique powder if that helps anyone. I did run across one that called for 4.5 grains of Unique with the same bullet but that sounds a little too hot considering I use 5.2 grains for a 180 grain 40 cal...

    Anyone who has reliable load data for this puppy please give me a holler, if I don't have the powder I'll go buy it...just please give me some good confirmed data.

    Thanks for your time.

  2. #2
    Dogs Like Him versifier's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    1,854

    Default

    This is data for a 95gr jacketed bullet and UNIQUE from the Sierra manual.
    Charge Velocity
    3.1............750
    3.3............800
    3.5............850
    3.7............900
    3.9............950
    4.0Max.....1000
    Test pistol was a Walther PPK and best accuracy was obtained in that pistol at 3.9gr, just a hair less than max. Work it up carefully, though and watch your primers in the fired cases. Cast boolits shoot at higher velocity and lower pressure compared to jacketed of the same weight with the same charge.
    With a 90grJHP, my PPK does best with 4.2gr UNIQUE, a max load, but it is NOT pleasant to shoot.
    If the load you found was for a cast boolit, it might be safe in someone's gun, but I would not want to go that high, certainly not in a little pistol.
    "Stand your ground.
    Do not fire unless fired upon.
    But if they mean to have a war let it begin here."
    - Capt. Parker, Lexington Militia, April 19, 1775

  3. #3

    Default

    Thanks versifier,

    I was going to start at 3.5-3.7 just to play it safe...I believe one of my Lee Disks is "preset" to 3.5 gr...so what you're saying is that I'll probably get better than 850 fps with that powder load with less "kick". I'm shooting a Bersa .380 blowback so I'm more concerned with the pressure curve than I am with my larger "normal" guns.

    I'm pretty new to reloading and a little nervous about my first load that's not directly out of the Lee Manual (it's kept me safe so far). As soon as I get my dies in I'll slam together 14 rounds (2 clips worth) and report back.

    Thanks again.
    Last edited by Sigma 40 Blaster; 06-13-2007 at 04:56 PM.

  4. #4
    Dogs Like Him versifier's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    1,854

    Default

    There's a reason why starting loads are called that. Start at 3.0-3.1, then work up one increment at a time. The table's listed max may well be over pressure in some pistols, every one is different. The drawback of the Autodisk is that you cannot fine tune your load as you can with a better measure and scale. Not quite so critical with most handgun rounds, but when you approach max loads, you have to be even more careful. BTW, you need at minimum TWO manuals (and three is better) to check on their suggested loads. They are compiled by fallible humans who occasionally make mistakes. I recommend the Lyman Cast Bullet and Sierra manuals to go along with your Lee. You can download a lot of data from the powder manufacturers, too - IMR in particular has some good free info, as does Alliant.
    "Stand your ground.
    Do not fire unless fired upon.
    But if they mean to have a war let it begin here."
    - Capt. Parker, Lexington Militia, April 19, 1775

  5. #5

    Default

    Since all the load data I found indicated that 3.5 would be safe I decided to start there (max loads are listed at 4-4.2 on different sites). I think I can safely go up 3.7, I shot 14 rounds but had two squibs...they fired but you could tell it wasn't right...the other 12 landed in a sub 2" group for me.

    The other reason I'm moving up is to go to a slightly bigger cavity on the Auto Disk...I'm seriously thinking about replacing it and might soon if my next batch of ammo has any light charges...I've loaded around 1,000 40 S&W and no problems so far.

    The primers indicated a light load so :

    My next load will be:
    95 gr. lead RN
    3.7 gr. Unique
    OAL - .975

    Thanks for your input and suggestions, I appreciate it.

  6. #6
    Dogs Like Him versifier's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    1,854

    Default

    If you are getting "sqibs", then there is obviously a problem, either with primer storage/handling/seating or powder storage/dispensing. Maybe it would be smarter to first figure out for sure what is causing the problem before you go upping charges. Since you are clearly willing to bypass basic safe loading practices by starting in the upper end of the charge table, there may well be other basics you are overlooking in your haste. I recommend caution and a careful evaluation of your loading routine until you have figured out where the problem is. Ignition problems like that can lead to serious consequences, depending on the cause. I would really rather you did not inadvertantly become a troubling statistic.
    "Stand your ground.
    Do not fire unless fired upon.
    But if they mean to have a war let it begin here."
    - Capt. Parker, Lexington Militia, April 19, 1775

  7. #7
    Gunload Grunt kg42's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    BC
    Posts
    510

    Default

    Sorry I didn't see that coming as I have the same problem with flake powders (700X and some surplus Herco).
    It seems that the flakes bunch together and block the cavities filling.
    With the 700X, the first disk will give very irregular charges; the second will deliver the occasional odd sounding loads with some stove pipes in 9mm (.46 and .49cc).

    I can only suggest you to switch to ball powders for the little 380 as they don't mind the narrow cavities; but you might need the Micro Disk kit as they are usually denser than the flake ones.
    Last edited by kg42; 06-17-2007 at 07:15 PM.

  8. #8
    Dogs Like Him versifier's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    1,854

    Default

    That makes sense. I have never used a Lee AutoDisk measure - about the only Lee product I have never tried. If that is in fact the cause of Blaster's problems, then he's good to go. I would double check by using a loading block and drop charges in all the cases, then go back with a bright light and check the powder levels. Light charges should be pretty obvious then, and he would know for sure.

    Lee makes an adjustable volumetric measure, the Perfect, that is fairly inexpensive and will also work with their turret presses. Then he can use any powder without worrying. All of the big makers sell good powder measures, I like the Lyman & RCBS the best of those I have used over the years.

    I'm still using my 35 year old Uniflow for all my powder dispensing chores. Miniscule charges of Bullseye to mega charges of 3031 or 4895, all drop consistantly. With the proper tapping, even IMR powders won't bridge in it. I have never seen the need to buy a more modern measure, they are still making it with no changes in God knows how long. I like their "if it works don't fix it" attitude.
    "Stand your ground.
    Do not fire unless fired upon.
    But if they mean to have a war let it begin here."
    - Capt. Parker, Lexington Militia, April 19, 1775

  9. #9
    Gunload Grunt kg42's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    BC
    Posts
    510

    Default

    The PPM from LEE is not that perfect, considering its price with the charging die.
    For one thing it is not meant to expand cases so you need an extra station. I was able to make an insert and use some of the standard expander plugs, but this works only for cases of about 1.29".

    I bought it when I used very fine ball powder that leaked in my original Auto-Disk, but haven't needed it since I updated with the Pro kit.
    Some reloaders have also complained that the PPM was not accurate for small loads of ball powders... I don't know; it worked fine with 12 grs and up for me.
    Last edited by kg42; 06-17-2007 at 08:59 PM.

  10. #10

    Default

    Versifier, thanks again for your input and concern. I opted to start at 3.5 gr. because I didn't see anyplace that called that out as close to a max load...I had a co-worker who's been loading for longer than I've been living providing input...both of you pretty much said the same thing. I'm not trying to disregard safety at all.

    The primers are kept in an open shelf at room temperature, no problems from the same lot of primers I've been using in my .40 cal (zero problems). Powder storage same thing...haven't had either for more than a month.

    I loaded 28 bullets at 3.7 grains, no problems at all. I then loaded another 28...no problems at all. Than I proceeded to make about 450 more and had the same problems as before at a rate of 2 out of 10.

    I am making sure all finished cartridges are roughly .980 +/- .005...could this be a case of not enough crimping??? Again, all cases are the same diameter at the mouth, I'm expanding just enough to place the bullet, and the finished cartidge dimensions are right on...

    kg42, I am also starting to suspect that my Auto Disk is throwing inconsistent loads with this small dose of flake powder. I was doing visuals on every load and I did find myself pulling a few before bullet placement...but for the most part they all looked right on.

    Could my problem be a crimping issue or more because of an inconsistent charge?

    I'll probably end up weighing about 50 of my finished cartridges to see if my weights are off (using same brand of brass and bullets luckily for me) and will see if any lighter bullets are my problems. I think I'm going to switch to a ball powder (Bullseye???) for my reloading ventures...I'm not sure if I'll be reloading this caliber again. It's just strange that I had no problems at all with my .40 cal at 5.something grains (don't remember it, have it written down in my loading book).

    The weird thing is that all of the cartridges fire, they even hit where I'm aiming. There is just not enough recoil to eject the case and the sound is eerily poofy...I appreciate your input and look forward to any more ideas or tips.
    Last edited by Sigma 40 Blaster; 06-17-2007 at 11:53 PM.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check        

Gunloads.com Sponsored Links