Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 14

Thread: Ammonia

  1. #1
    GunLoad Trainee DeanoBeanCounter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    S. L. C., Utah, USA
    Posts
    27

    Lightbulb Ammonia

    I know that using ammonia on brass is a definite no-no. BUT. Does anyone see anything wrong with puting a drop or two in cleaning solvent or just on a patch to detect copper in the bore? Would it help dessolve any copper build up in the bore?

  2. #2
    Dogs Like Him versifier's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    1,854

    Default

    That's exactly the active ingredient in most copper removing bore cleaners. It does no harm to the barrel, though it might react with certain stock finishes - many solvents do. Full strength ammonia is not the most fun substance to be working with, so your eyes and nasal membranes may appreciate diluting it a bit. I know more than one shooter who uses it full strength on patches and with PLASTIC bore brushes.
    "Stand your ground.
    Do not fire unless fired upon.
    But if they mean to have a war let it begin here."
    - Capt. Parker, Lexington Militia, April 19, 1775

  3. #3
    Great Master d-o-k's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Flinders Ranges South Australia
    Posts
    500

    Default

    SWEETS 7.62 solvent has enough Amonia in it to make ya socks rot off your feet ! It removes copper fouling beautifully ! You must swab out the bore with what we call Metholated spirt s after though (I'm not sure of what you call Metho over your side of the pond ) Be warned though if you ue it (Sweets ) on a copper brush make ure you clean it in the metho after use ! I forgot once with a brand new brush & the next time I went to use it I was rewarded with a stem of brass threaded on one end but minus brissles !!!! !

    Dave
    All times wasted wot not spent shootin

  4. #4
    Private klausg's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    South-Central Alaska
    Posts
    73

    Default

    Barne's CR 10 is much like Sweet's 7.62. d-o-k I'm fairly sure what you call methylated spirits down there is what we call denatured alcohol. Interesting idea using that stuff; I generally just use a couple of dry patches followed by some oil, then wait around an hour and repeat. I'll have to give the alcohol a try.

    -Klaus

  5. #5
    Buff Canuck44's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Terrace, B.C. Canada
    Posts
    106

    Default

    I have read here that some guys fill their bores up with Ammonia and leave it over night. The other day a guy up here says to me that Ammonia will react with steel and I should not leave it overnight. What is the real skinny here. Will it harm the barrel if left over night or not?

    Used some the other day to clean up one of my rifles. Don't think I have a nasel hair left!

    Take care

    Bob

  6. #6
    Private klausg's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    South-Central Alaska
    Posts
    73

    Default

    Bob-
    I am not a big fan of leaving anything in a bore overnight, I'm not sure what the real skinny is but I wouldn't leave anything stronger than say Hoppe's in there for any length of time. If it's fouled to the point I'd be thinking about it, I generally break out the JB's and use that.

    -Klaus

  7. #7
    Great Master d-o-k's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Flinders Ranges South Australia
    Posts
    500

    Default

    I've heard talk of leaving Sweets in overnight ! But who ever did this would be a gamer man than me ! The longest I ever leave it in is about 30mins ! That was to clean out really bad fouling on rifles I've just brought & then I swab out the barrel with patches soaked with metho to remove the solvent completely !

    Dave
    All times wasted wot not spent shootin

  8. #8
    Dogs Like Him versifier's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    1,854

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by klausg View Post
    Bob-
    I am not a big fan of leaving anything in a bore overnight, I'm not sure what the real skinny is but I wouldn't leave anything stronger than say Hoppe's in there for any length of time. If it's fouled to the point I'd be thinking about it, I generally break out the JB's and use that.

    -Klaus
    Ammonium hydroxide, the proper chemical name for what we call ammonia, is an alkali (the opposite of an acid). The more concentrated it is, the more damage it can do to living tissue. From what I remember of my college chemistry, it will have negligible effect upon barrel steel at low "household" concentration. You wouldn't want to be handling it at reagent grade without a gasmask and a fume hood. But seriously, if your bore is so fouled with copper that you need to consider an overnight soak, you should be using an electrolytic remover like Outers Foul Out2 or an inexpensive homemade version to do the job. Shooters Choice is strong enough for most shooters, Sweets is stronger still for tougher jobs, but nothing beats a little current to pull copper and lead fouling right off of the steel quickly and easily.
    "Stand your ground.
    Do not fire unless fired upon.
    But if they mean to have a war let it begin here."
    - Capt. Parker, Lexington Militia, April 19, 1775

  9. #9
    GunLoad Trainee DeanoBeanCounter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    S. L. C., Utah, USA
    Posts
    27

    Smile

    Thank you all. If I every use ammonia full strength I'll be sure to have plenty of ventelation (like in a hurricane). I do have a couple of rifles that have copper fouling. This will be a great help.

  10. #10
    GunLoad Trainee
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Hinterlands of Wisconsin
    Posts
    4

    Default

    Ammonia if left on steel too long, can and will etch it. What reprecussions will be derived from that, I don't know. That is why I use Blue Wonder. Check out their website, following their directions worked wonders (pun intended) for me.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check        

Gunloads.com Sponsored Links