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Thread: Another How To Question

  1. #11
    Grunt elkhunter77's Avatar
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    Yes just put a dab around the primer and wipe off the excess. It fills the gap around the primer. I don't think it is straight nail polish as it is not brittle and does not dry out in the bottle from not using. Must be some additional polymer in it.

  2. #12
    Dogs Like Him versifier's Avatar
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    Both resins have the elasticity to move with the metal as the temperature varies. Whatever solvent is in nail polish, it is a lot more volatile than what is in the other. I've never had to buy something special from Midway with three daughters, all of whom learned to shoot and one to hunt over many years. They tossed anything they tried and didn't like and knew I could use into my shooting bag. There are six in my range box right now. (At the other end of it from the Loctite. Don't ask.) Nail polishes work great to touch up front and rear sights, too. Black, white, orange, red, dark blue and green for sights, and anything translucent or clear to seal primers and bullets.
    "Stand your ground.
    Do not fire unless fired upon.
    But if they mean to have a war let it begin here."
    - Capt. Parker, Lexington Militia, April 19, 1775

  3. #13
    Bah Humbug! Hellrazor's Avatar
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    Please don't tell us you use tampons to cleans your shotgun barrels...


  4. #14
    Dogs Like Him versifier's Avatar
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    I know you were joking HR, but...

    No, the string wasn't strong enough - it broke when I pulled one through the 20ga's choke tube, no good way to fix it to the end of the cleaning rod as-is but it cleaned a thick layer of melted wad plastic in one pass when I dunked it into solvent and first pulled then pushed it through when the string broke with a range rod. Little torpedo held A LOT of solvent, just like those felt pellets you push through the barrel to clean air rifles with, just much bigger. I couldn't find my 20ga brush and then I ran out of large cleaning patches late one night doing shotgun maintenance and I went to the medicine cabinet to scrounge a gauze pad to put through a slotted jag and scrub the barrel with, I saw the box of them first and a light bulb went on. Seems to me I remember a company selling something like that for larger bores (Otis?) but no matter what kind of hole they get shoved into or pulled out of, they're all made from the same very absorbent 100% cotton felt material. It would be more work than I'm interested in to cut some up with razor blades and try them in a rifled barrel, but they'd work great for applying solvents or oil if correctly sized. I never asked if they came in different sizes. Probably better not to know.... Sometimes when you're right in the middle of something and run out of critical supplies, a man has to get creative, that's when you learn things. Now I have Boresnake for the job, when I can find it....
    "Stand your ground.
    Do not fire unless fired upon.
    But if they mean to have a war let it begin here."
    - Capt. Parker, Lexington Militia, April 19, 1775

  5. #15
    Grunt elkhunter77's Avatar
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    Heck I couldn't even go to the store and buy the darn things for my wife, too chicken I guess.

  6. #16
    Great Master j1's Avatar
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    Rule number one. Shoot them and they cannot corrode.

  7. #17
    Great Master j1's Avatar
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    Do not leave the reloads around long enough to develop problems. Now if that is a problem I might be able to help.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check        

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