Results 1 to 3 of 3

Thread: Rossi trigger work

  1. #1
    GunLoad Trainee gooser's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    michigan
    Posts
    8

    Default Rossi trigger work

    Has anyone done any trigger work to the Rossi single rifle? The factory pull on this trigger is too heavy for serious long range shooting.
    Any suggestions?
    ******Join the Magnum Gang******

  2. #2
    Dogs Like Him versifier's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    1,854

    Default

    Welcome to the forum.
    This is about triggers in general, not just about your Rossi specifically. It's not a difficult job, but it is really something that you need to be shown how to do by a competent gunsmith. (Not all of them like an audience, so maybe a video would work.) The problem is that if you get a little carried way with stones, easy to do if you've never done it, you end up with something dangerous. What you can do that should make a difference in the feel but not necessarily the weight of pull is to polish the metal surfaces using a dremel tool, cloth tip, and some VERY Fine carbide grinding compound. Try the technique on scraps of differing hardness first to get a feel for it. Stay away from the engagement notches, just concentrate on the flats. Thoroughly clean the parts afterward. That should help with the creep and gritty feeling. I have found that a smooth trigger makes it seem like the weight is cut in half, even if the trigger pull gage says it hasn't. It makes the biggest difference in a double action revolver, but I have had good results also with milsurps and single shot rifles and shotguns. Nowadays, I am more inclined to bring it to a gunsmith to be lightened - I really messed one up when I first started and had to replace the whole unit, a much more expensive mistake today than thirty years ago. I had a friend at the time who was quite good at it, taught me how, but convinced me by demonstrating that a good polishing often made it unnecessary. I have found it to be true with only a handful of exceptions, and I have sent most of those out - admitting honestly that it takes practice and better eyesight for close work than I now have for it to be more than just a trial and error thing. I would polish it first, then bring it to a professional if it still isn't what you need.
    If you really want to learn how to do it, though, learn on a milsurp that you can easily get a replacement for small cost.
    Last edited by versifier; 05-21-2006 at 05:49 PM.
    "Stand your ground.
    Do not fire unless fired upon.
    But if they mean to have a war let it begin here."
    - Capt. Parker, Lexington Militia, April 19, 1775

  3. #3
    GunLoad Trainee gooser's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    michigan
    Posts
    8

    Default

    well thanks versifier, I probably will take it to a gunsmith, but perhaps as you say,maybe just a simple polish will do the trick. I recently shot a 2 inch group at 300 yds , so that could be just the ticket.
    Thanks again.
    gooser
    ******Join the Magnum Gang******

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check        

Gunloads.com Sponsored Links