I have some wheel weights that have a sticky coating on them..Any suggestions for removal ,short of burning?
Thanks BTW just cast some 50 beowulf 440 lee mould..Runs great behing 30.5 grains of lil gun..
I have some wheel weights that have a sticky coating on them..Any suggestions for removal ,short of burning?
Thanks BTW just cast some 50 beowulf 440 lee mould..Runs great behing 30.5 grains of lil gun..
The sticky stuff comes off in the smelting. Just make sure you get all the zinc weights out of the batch. They are much harder and usually have the clips attached with rivets, sometimes it even says what they are right on them. There are stick-on zinc weights, too. The stick-on lead weights are close enough to pure lead as makes no nevermind (you can either msmelt them separately if you shoot black powder or leave them in the mix).
"Stand your ground.
Do not fire unless fired upon.
But if they mean to have a war let it begin here."
- Capt. Parker, Lexington Militia, April 19, 1775
If theye're flat with the sticky coating on one side, they're weights for mag wheels and are probably almost pure lead. You'll have to add something like some linotype to harden them up or they may be too soft for anything other than very light loads. Most of the time when I get a bunch of those, I'll add about two pounds of the flat weights to ten pounds of regular wheel weight and a pouns od linotype. That'll make them a lot more usable. Or, of you shoot muzzle loaders, them they'll be just fine as is.
Paul B.
POLITICAL CORRECTNESS IS AN OXYMORON PROMULGATED BY MORONS.
Thanks much for the information..
They are the flat 1"sq.type so i will go with the nearly pure lead.And work accordingly..I have mixed plumbing vent boot lead with ww before for my 45's..
seems to work fine..
POLITICAL CORRECTNESS IS AN OXYMORON PROMULGATED BY MORONS.
Personally I'd seperate the soft tape on weight from the regular clips on weights. Your lead batches will be more consistant hardness. Save the tape on weights for a seperate smelting time or you can trade them for clip weights.
"In God We Trust"
BIG BORE Revolver Nut
Boolit Caster
Another idea is to save the tape weights for later and use them to blend with clip weights 50/50 for a softer alloy for hunting boolit.
"In God We Trust"
BIG BORE Revolver Nut
Boolit Caster
Another idea is to use them to blend a lyman #2 clone.
My casting is done with my usual alloy which is a Lyman #2 clone produced with 9# of clip wheelweight ingots, and 1# of 50/50 bar solder. Or 1/2 pound of the soft lead stick on weights / 1/2 pound lead free solder or tin. Check solder label, you want Sn95 Sb5 (95% tin 5% Antimony) I do add 1 oz. of chilled or magnum #8 shot and water quench the dropped bullets for a BHN of 21. I have found this alloy tolerant of jacket bullet pressures and velocities, accurate, and deadly on big game. If using the 95/5 solder, you do not need the 1 oz. of shot.
FYI: True Lyman #2 can be ordered here: http://www.rotometals.com/product-p/...ulletmetal.htm
Last edited by JJCASTINGS; 08-13-2013 at 10:49 AM. Reason: added note about not needing shot if 95/5 used.
The flag does not fly because of the wind that blows it. The flag flies because each soldiers' last breath blows by it!
Zinc wheel weights ought to be against the law. Lead only. Everyone knows that, or should.
Hiya v. I got on here too.
Last edited by j1; 02-05-2014 at 02:42 AM.
Welcome John. Glad you made it.
"Stand your ground.
Do not fire unless fired upon.
But if they mean to have a war let it begin here."
- Capt. Parker, Lexington Militia, April 19, 1775
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |