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Thread: 40 S&W Load for American Select

  1. #1
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    Default 40 S&W Load for American Select

    Could anyone suggest a load for me: I have 8 pounds of American Select, and several hundred boolits I cast for 40 S&W which are sorted, weighing 180-185 gr. Is this powder appropriate for these weights? I'd sure like to use it up.

  2. #2
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    Followup: I finally figured out to contact Alliant Powders with my question (duh), and they quickly replied, suggesting I try 4.5 to 5.0 grains and see how they cycle.

    Loaded up test loads of 4.5 grains of all weights yesterday and shot them. They cycled great, grouped well, and the primers and cases looked good. Didn't have time to put them through the chronograph, but will do that next.

    Thanks everyone!

  3. #3
    Gunload Grunt kg42's Avatar
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    They have a Reloader's guide, caliber by caliber, and a pdf file with "all" recipes:

    http://www.alliantpowder.com/
    http://www.alliantpowder.com/resources/catalog.aspx

    kg

  4. #4
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    Smile

    Thanks, kg42. I had found their Reloader's guide, but for 40 S&W they only showed loads for the Speer GDHP -- nothing for cast lead. AND, nothing for American Select.

    I'm still novice enough at reloading to not understand why loads can be so different for the same weights of jacketed/plated/hp/long and skinny and pointed/proprietary hp's like GDHP vs. Winchester Silvertips/etc/etc/etc. Anyway, I was afraid to just guess.....

    Can you shed any light on this "different loads/powders for different bullets" business?

  5. #5
    Dogs Like Him versifier's Avatar
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    It is always safe to use handgun jacketed data for a cast bullet of the same or slightly lighter weight. Caution is a healthy thing. No two sets of data are gathered with the same bullets, powder lot, case brand, and firearm. All those variables add up to differences in charge weights for what are apparantly similar components. "Similar" is the key word. You can never match a "book load" exactly, even with the same brands of components and test gun. You can come close enough to be safe and have a workable load, though.

    Watch your OAL in hot rounds like .40S&W/.357Sig/10mm. If you seat too deeply you can red line your pressure pretty quick. Often there isn't a published OAL for many cast bullets and in that case you must load them the longest possible that does not inhibit proper function. This keeps your chamber pressure as low as possible. Make sure you use just enough crimp to prevent telescoping during feeding. (If you are having problems, Lee's Factory Crimp die is about the easiest to use.)

    IMO you are going to get yourself into trouble if you are relying on the net for all of your loading data. Nothing beats having three current loading manuals on your shelf for quick reference and comparison (not to mention they will each explain the loading process in a slightly different way as an aid in understanding). Start with Lyman as it has loads for both cast and jacketed, handguns and rifles. Then choose your two favorite bullet makers and get copies of theirs. Consider them the most inexpensive life insurance available.
    Last edited by versifier; 05-09-2010 at 04:22 PM.
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  6. #6
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    Thumbs up

    LOL LOL! Versifier, you sound like my son! When he was in high school he and his friends reloaded a lot of rifle rounds. So when I got interested in loading on my own (about the time he started talking with me about his concerns about the way our government was trending toward restricting firearms by restricting ammunition, and I figured the fix would be to get ahold of primers, and learn to cast your own bullets), he handed me his Hornaday reloading manual and told me to read it. And then re-read it. And "Big M, be really careful!", because he was afraid I'd go off half-cocked and get into trouble. (Personally, I think that was related to his own teen-age lucky-to-be-alive lessons learned).

    Anyway, I listened to him, and ended up, as you suggested, with Lyman, Sierra, Speer, a new Hornaday, and Lee manuals as well. Lyman and Lee are the only two which have info for cast bullets.

    So, I am very careful, and I have my own hidey-hole reloading room (which even my husband admires), and now I get it about why you fellas love this so much. It's interesting, challenging, peaceful. The little kids want to come see what grandma's doing, but their mamma thinks they're too young for shooting yet, so I give them a quick explanation, and shoo them back upstairs. (I've got a Cricket in the gunsafe for when they're a little older, but that's for another day).

    What I found out through all this is how much I enjoy shooting handguns! And since I like to shoot a lot, I reload a lot. At first I bought bullets, then bulk bullets, and then got into casting so I can shoot more and not go bankrupt. Now I've learned I've got to stay away from those gun shows -- they're more addicting than WalMart!

    Anyway, thanks, fellas, for all your help. And Versifier, thanks very much for the heads up on the 40 cal stuff. That was REALLY helpful information, and very clearly put. I will pay close attention as you suggested! This forum is amazingly helpful!

    Patti

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check        

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