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Thread: AR15 Bolt Won't Close on My Reloads

  1. #1
    GunLoad Trainee Eagle15's Avatar
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    Default AR15 Bolt Won't Close on My Reloads

    This is driving me nuts, cases measure out same as new factory 223/5.56, only difference is COAL, but COAL is as specified by Speer and Hornady reloading books.

    I've thoroughly cleaned the chamber and lugs, cleaned and oiled the BCG, it's a little better, but still won't close. The only thing I can see is the base is rough from the extractor.

    As an added note I breoke the charging handle trying to remove a stuck loaded case.

    Any ideas? Help!
    Eagle15

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    Political Correctness is a doctrine, fostered by a delusional, illogical, liberal minority, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.

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    runfiverun runfiverun's Avatar
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    your case o.a.l. may be the same however your headspace could be longer.
    the headspace is measured from the base to a datum line on the shoulder of the case.
    you also need to measure the body of the case especially near the base.
    seating the bullet out further is not a big deal as long as it will feed from the magazine and does not move forward, or shoved deeper into the case when chambering.
    or hit the lands when chambering.

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    Dogs Like Him versifier's Avatar
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    Welcome to the Guide, Eagle15.

    I agree, it sounds like you didn't fully size them. Did you use a FL or a neck sizer? What brand dies? Where did the cases come from? They may have been fired in a more generous chamber and the die you used did not set the shoulder back far enough and/or the shoulder diameter is too large and was not properly sized down to where it should have been. You need to provide us with some more information to nail it down. Measure diameter at head and shoulder, and length from base to shoulder. The cases are obviously overlarge in one or more places and you need to figure out where to know how to fix it.
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  4. #4
    GunLoad Trainee Eagle15's Avatar
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    Fl and Dillon dies, screwed all the way down to the shell plate. Cases are various fired from my AR and a friends AR. His are chinese factory loads and mine are old Win White Box and PMC.

    I'll measure near the neck and base and post in ht AM.

    Thank you!
    Eagle15

    Environmentalism is just another horse for the left to ride on because all the previous ones, called collectivism, communism, and progressivism, have been shot out from under them. (David Horowitz)

    Political Correctness is a doctrine, fostered by a delusional, illogical, liberal minority, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.

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    runfiverun runfiverun's Avatar
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    now we are getting somewhere.
    550 i am gonna assume.
    you really need to check your die setting with a case in all stations on a 550. you also nees to check your bullet seating depth with a case in all stations.
    now for some super advice that will make your cases not last as long but eliminate feeding problems permanently.
    buy the dillon size trim die, the one for their powered trimmer.
    it will resize those cases to minimum spec's. and you will want to use your size die to neck-up the cases when reloading them.
    their trimmer is also the fastest way to size and trim all at once and you need to lube when using.
    yeah it's more work but well worth it.
    for my semi-s like the m-14 i size trim with the dillon after decapping then i use my tumbler to remove the lube [dillons spray lube b.t.w.]
    then go to the 550 neck up the case/seat primer and load from there.
    the ammo is done when it comes off the dillon this way.
    yeah there are other ways to do it, but this is [for me]the best [as far as consistency and quality]

    you can re-load with just lubing and running through the 550/650 but the ar's tend to stretch brass each time you use it.
    now if you just want pretty fair ammo then i would still buy their trim die.
    de-cap your brass separately.
    install the trim die in place of your sizing die and load as normal. this will however increase the bullet pull [neck tension]
    you will still have to lube cases and remove the lube from the loaded rounds.
    option three if the others are not gonna work for you.
    buy a good redding small base die and use it.
    you will need to trim your brass on a regular basis though and i doubt with an ar that case life will be much over 5 uses.

  6. #6
    GunLoad Trainee Eagle15's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by runfiverun View Post
    now we are getting somewhere.
    550 i am gonna assume. Yup 550
    you really need to check your die setting with a case in all stations on a 550. you also nees to check your bullet seating depth with a case in all stations. I need to do this, I have only been using the decap size die with a case in it.
    now for some super advice that will make your cases not last as long but eliminate feeding problems permanently.
    buy the dillon size trim die, the one for their powered trimmer.
    it will resize those cases to minimum spec's. and you will want to use your size die to neck-up the cases when reloading them. OK I'll get one, I'll have to wait for the trimmer though, gotta get back to work before I can spend that much
    their trimmer is also the fastest way to size and trim all at once and you need to lube when using.
    yeah it's more work but well worth it.
    for my semi-s like the m-14 i size trim with the dillon after decapping then i use my tumbler to remove the lube [dillons spray lube b.t.w.] I like & use the Dillon Lube also.
    then go to the 550 neck up the case/seat primer and load from there.
    the ammo is done when it comes off the dillon this way. I'm not sure what you mean by "neck up the case".
    yeah there are other ways to do it, but this is [for me]the best [as far as consistency and quality]

    you can re-load with just lubing and running through the 550/650 but the ar's tend to stretch brass each time you use it.
    now if you just want pretty fair ammo then i would still buy their trim die.
    de-cap your brass separately.
    install the trim die in place of your sizing die and load as normal. this will however increase the bullet pull [neck tension]
    you will still have to lube cases and remove the lube from the loaded rounds.
    option three if the others are not gonna work for you.
    buy a good redding small base die and use it. What about an X-Die?
    you will need to trim your brass on a regular basis though and i doubt with an ar that case life will be much over 5 uses.
    Sorry I'm late getting back to you guys. I've been busy with school stuff, board meeting, trying to get a gym built at the HS.

    Anyway, Thank you guys for your advice. I'll answer in a minute, but I have the measurements.

    Neck: Reload .2455 LCFactory .2455 WIN WB .2495
    Shoulder: .3545 .351 .3535
    Base: .3745 .3735 .3735
    Rim to Shoulder: 1.450 1.452 1.451
    Rim to Neck: 1.57 1.57 1.567
    Case Length: 1.751 1.753 1.752

    I tumble, lube, decap and FL size on a RL550, tumble to remove case lube, trim all, prime all, then start loading from powder drop, seat, taper crimp, into acrobin. I prefer to get all the cases trimmed and primed before i start throwing any powder.

    I loaded some cases to work up a load using WC 846T, 62grn BTFMJ, CCI #41 primers. So far 24.4 grains groups under 1" at 100yds.
    Eagle15

    Environmentalism is just another horse for the left to ride on because all the previous ones, called collectivism, communism, and progressivism, have been shot out from under them. (David Horowitz)

    Political Correctness is a doctrine, fostered by a delusional, illogical, liberal minority, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.

  7. #7
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    I don't know of any accurate way to measure your distance to shoulder without a case gage. We are talking about a mere 10 thousands of an inch between go and no-go. You really need to get a cartridge case gage, such as that sold by Wilson. These are absolutely invaluable in helping you determine how much you need to push back- you can minimize the stress to the brass by only pushing it back .003 - .004" after shooting them in your target rifle.

    I am certain your full-length size did not push the shoulder back enough. Something is either wrong with the die, or the die is not set up correctly on your press.

  8. #8
    GunLoad Trainee Eagle15's Avatar
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    The case fits into a Dillon case guage just fine ( similar to a Wilson). That is one of the reasons I'm baffled.
    When I drop a factory manufactured round into the case guage it falls in properly and is even with the proper postion on the guage, my reloads fall in and look exactly the same. I have ordered an RCBS precision micrometer, it's a screw together type guage that does this:

    A few twists of the Precision Mic and you'll know your chamber headspace and bullet seating depth to 0.001". The Precision Mic measures from a datum point on the case shoulder to the base, giving you the exact SAAMI tolerance readings. An indispensable tool for safe, accurate loads that extend the life of your brass and firearm.

    You can see one here: http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct...tnumber=477756

    I don't know if this will help, but it should provide an accurate measurement.

    I am going to try reseting the die as runfiverunrecommended, putting a case in each station when I adjust the sizing die. I'll let you know how that works. I'm hoping that is the solution.
    Last edited by Eagle15; 02-18-2010 at 12:21 PM. Reason: Dillon case guage
    Eagle15

    Environmentalism is just another horse for the left to ride on because all the previous ones, called collectivism, communism, and progressivism, have been shot out from under them. (David Horowitz)

    Political Correctness is a doctrine, fostered by a delusional, illogical, liberal minority, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.

  9. #9
    runfiverun runfiverun's Avatar
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    dillons size/trim die is a minimal size die it will squeeze the necks [and bodies] down.
    for instance on my 308 cases the inside diameter from the trim die comes out at 300.
    after a regular sizing die,and expander ball it comes out closer to 306.
    the extra neck tension is great when using h-414 where i can basically cram the whole case full of powder to the top of the neck and seat a bullet.
    now i don't need nor want that much neck tension in a target rifle so i need to neck up the brass to proper tension with a mandrel or the regular dies expander.
    i suggest the cases in all stations mainly because as you go through one at a time and set up everything you aren't seeing one die hit the shell plate causing it to tip and stop the upward movement of the ram causing you to short seat or short size,or both.

  10. #10
    GunLoad Trainee Eagle15's Avatar
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    OK got it, I'll order the dies and let you know how they work.

    Thank you for your help and stay tuned as this saga continues. LOL!
    Eagle15

    Environmentalism is just another horse for the left to ride on because all the previous ones, called collectivism, communism, and progressivism, have been shot out from under them. (David Horowitz)

    Political Correctness is a doctrine, fostered by a delusional, illogical, liberal minority, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.

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