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Thread: When is the best time to clean brass before depriming, resizing or after?

  1. #11
    swamp
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mtman314 View Post
    I use the little wire brush one at a time.


    LOL
    What are you using a little wire brush for, cleaning the shells? That must take forever and be very painful to your fingers.

  2. #12

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    Depending on the condition of the brass, I usually wipe it down and inspect it, lube, resize and trim, then tumble it. I like clean brass, as it helps me to see any defects a lot easier. Martha is welcome here...
    Tom

    Warning! Does NOT play well with others!

  3. #13
    swamp
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bama View Post
    Depending on the condition of the brass, I usually wipe it down and inspect it, lube, resize and trim, then tumble it. I like clean brass, as it helps me to see any defects a lot easier. Martha is welcome here...
    I have to agree; I don't know how you could possibly identify a failure or defect in a filthy, corroded shell.

  4. #14
    GunLoad Trainee Mtman314's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by swamp View Post
    What are you using a little wire brush for, cleaning the shells? That must take forever and be very painful to your fingers.
    for the black in the primer pockets

    nah I get the blisters when I cut down 200 30-06 and resize to 8mm and primer them in a day and that was with moleskin and leather gloves. 54 cents a round for 8mm and I had paid 4 cents a round for military 30-06 back in september. I'll see if I can get anymore it's work, but I got time right now to do the work. LOL, the other half says it keeps me outta trouble.
    Last edited by Mtman314; 03-20-2009 at 01:14 PM.

  5. #15
    swamp
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    I hear ya on the blisters; I just got done trimming 1,000 brand new Star Line .45 ACP shells. You know, trim, then de-burr inside and out (and a .45 is the max size shell you can de-burr with the tool so fitting it to the shell is a tedious task). It makes you wonder if it's worth it till you're done; then you're glad to have the perfect brass.

  6. #16
    GunLoad Trainee Mtman314's Avatar
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    I think lee has a 50 cal deburrer for about 10 bucks

  7. #17
    swamp
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    That could help; I'll look into that before tackling another thousand.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by versifier View Post
    But the biggest reason why I won't do it is because most methods of cleaning (except ultrasonic) put outrageous amounts of particulate lead into the air. It is the single greatest source of lead contamination for most of us, and that includes those who cast bullets.
    Where does this lead come from?

    Do you have any sources to back-up your assertion?

  9. #19
    swamp
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    Quote Originally Posted by Splatter View Post
    Where does this lead come from?

    Do you have any sources to back-up your assertion?
    I would like to know where he thinks the lead is coming from too; I've never seen a hint of lead in a shell in over 35 years. Now maybe if you melt the lead into the shell in a furnace or something????

  10. #20
    Dogs Like Him versifier's Avatar
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    You have been seeing it as long as you've been shooting, just not realized what it was you were seeing. Most of it comes from the lead styphanate primer residue. (The same reason it is so hazardous to work in an indoor shooting range.) You see it as a black residue (mixed with that of burned power) in your fired cases. When you tumble the cases, the media knocks it loose and it gets into the air. Using any kind of surficant in with your media can cut down on it significantly, but most just use dry media. When you open the tumbler, separate the media, etc., you release clouds of it into the air, and you breathe it in. When it's on your hands, it's no big deal (As long as you don't eat, drink, or smoke) as you wash it off. Lead oxide is water soluble. That's good for when it's outside your body, bad for when you breathe it in and it gets into your bloodstream. Lead is particularly nasty when it gets into the systems of growing mammals (kids, pets, livestock) where in inhibits the growth of nerve cells. As adults, it builds up in your liver and causes all kinds of problems. Lead vapor is another issue. It is not a problem for handloaders and casters as the vaporization point is way above the range of temperatures you are casting it or its alloys at. It is present in the gasses of indoor ranges, so those who work there are exposed to both forms. That is the reason why so many ranges are requiring lead free ammo. It's not the bullets, though they do produce some airborne dust, it's the primers.
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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check        

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