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Linotype is much too hard for any hunting bullets. They will shatter like frangible bullets when they hit something solid like a large bone and not penetrate. Just like hunting with match bullets, lots of wounding, and can't be counted on for a clean kill. If they do penetrate and don't encounter anything hard, they will not expand and will impart little energy to the animal. Wheel weights work best for rifle bullets, 1/2 WW's 1/2 pure for handguns. If you only have lino, use 1/4 lino 3/4 pure lead. The softer you can go, the better as the bullets will deform in tissue but still hold together and penetrate properly. It's a tradeoff between velocity and performance. You can't push softer bullets as fast, but you don't need to for them to perform reliably.
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I was going to try Lyman #2 that is 50/50 lino lead.I found that mould at MidwayUSA.They have 2 and 4 cavity.I have a bottom pour furnace.Which do you think would be best?I never used a 4 banger before.
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I run singles, twos and sixes. The singles and twos are both steel and aluminum, the sixes all aluminum. I have never run a four cav so I really can't say, but the sixes sure put out a LOT of bullets very quickly, a big advantage considering how many handgun bullets I use. My 180 is a two cav. It really depends on how much you are going to shoot - I usually use lighter bullets for target practice so I don't use anywhere near as many of the heavy ones as I do 158's.
Cut your #2 alloy with an equal amount of pure lead and you'll do fine and save money.
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I think I will get the 2 cavity mould.It costs less and I really don't shoot as much as I once did.The people around here get nervous if I cut loose with to many rounds.So to keep the peace I limit my shooting.However my friend has a range and once in a while we cut loose a lot of ammo.I am still thinking I may go to a 180 or 190 grn.I feel 200 is to much for a 686.If I had a Ruger I may see it the other way.