shell casings

hi guys new to the game can anyone tell me if theres a diffrence in shells from one reload to the next if i go to the range and pick up federal shells but the load book asks for remington shells can they be swaped or not thank you

Rifle, pistol, scatterguns :) ?

Anyways the answer is usually yes for rifled hardware as cases will have different thickness, strength and capacity. Sometimes it's only a matter of dies adjustment, sometimes your pressures go all over the meter.
The only caliber I don't bother too much with that is the 45 auto as it is very accomodating.... unless you get a tight chamber.

The usual approach is to make a uniform lot of brass and start with starting loads, check things up and then adjust the load to your gun. There's also a few brands of cases up to no good in pistol but I can't even start on that without knowing what you reload.

Also check your range brass for head separation as you don't know in what they were used before.

Don't hesitate to ask questions here and keep us informed.

kg

well thxs for the info very much as for the loads they would be 45 auto 30-30 rifle 9mm pistol 40 cal pistol 357 magnum 35 remington 7mm weatherby would like to shoot them more thxs again ill check back

I use almost exclusively range brass now. Every piece gets carefully inspected and anything but once-fired goes into the recycling bucket. Sometimes, if reloaded brass has been cleaned and polished, it can be difficult to spot, but just like in the kitchen, if in doubt, throw it out.
Only serious competitors separate handgun brass, unless, for instance, you're loading revolver cases at max or near max loads. Then you need to watch what you're doing.
With rifle cases, always separate them by headstamp. With a little experimenting, you can see for yourself if there's a big difference in any given chambering between brands. Sometimes it's not a big difference, but often it is, especially with military or foreign brass. Again, be most careful when you are loading on the hotter side - when switching brands of brass, drop the charge and work back up watching for pressure signs.

American pistol brass is usually good to very good (Rem, Star-Line, WW, Fed.).

My major problem has been in revolver as some (Rem./ S-L) can be half as thick as Federal/WW in some calibers, which means having to crimp instead of relying on neck tension (and crimp stretches cases so you have to trim them eventually).
Oh, and these thick Federal 45 that wouldn't feed with unsized bullets...:)

Generally, I feel better not mixing stampings, even within the same brand, unless I use odd brass for blasting away, loaning the gun to a beginner or expecting to loose a lot.
I wouldn't do it in 9 luger unless I am sure that every type of brass is ok with the load, as it is a small case working at high pressures.

You should see a trend in your range, following the local market for ammo, and be able to make lots.

About the troubled brands, the mexican stuff (CDM?) can be short lived, and I've had problems priming Fiocchi 45 Autos. CBC and Sellier-Bellot work fine for me (45 again).
What you should really be careful with now are the non toxic manufactures; they will have small primers or huge flash holes in 45 Auto for example.

In rifle, again, check for head separation and trim to length.

kg