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Been originally from France, I have been using a gun oil call; BALLISTOL for over 25year and after trying all the different cleaner/oil here in the US; there is nothing up to Ballistol.
The company I work for is selling a 6 oz. spray for around $8.00 ...not much!!
Have a look: http://www.miamigunclasses.com/Catalog.html
If you buy some let me know what you think of it, as I’m a true believer of it to be simply the best product for firearm cleaning!
how well does it remove lead or copper
tom[smilie=w:
I just got turned on to a product called Flitz. I have cleaned 2 rifles and two pistols until I could white glove them, then used the cleaner and came away with rust colored cleaners. The second part is a type of carnuba wax guaranteed to protect for six months. One of the rifles was an 1873 springfield trap door that looks almost new now.
this product works perfect for Black powder guns. I use it on my Rem 44bp and it not only clean and when i shoot it the product reduced powder build ups!!
Great!!!
Also makes a great patch lube.Quote:
Originally Posted by dvonmatt
It would be hard to talk me out of using Ed's Red. Dale
I'm with you, Dale. As a recent convert to ED's Red, I just can't say enough about it. After mixing up my first batch of Red, I cleaned 4 of my 'already been cleaned' rifles. A LOT of gunk came out on the patches of each rifle.
Why would I want to purchase something else ? Ed's Red is effective, cheap, and doesn't smell too bad. At least my dear wife doesn't complain about it the way she did when I used #9.
Just my 2 cents worth.
I used the original formula(with turpentine) so it is a bit oderous, but a piney oder. I added some lanolin for lubrication and rust resistence. Dale
Ballistol- yep, good stuff.
For copper fouling- I use one of the med strength ammonia solvents like Shooter's Choice, Montana Extreme or Butch's along with brush and lots of patches on correct jags. For bad lead... nothing seems to work except a lot of elbow grease, lots of patches, maybe some Rem Clean or JB or for worst case... fine bronze wool tightly wrapped around a brush. Then in all my guns... swab out all chemical solvent when clean with at least two dry patches. Then swab bore and outside metal with either LPS #1 for short term or LPS #3 for long term storage.
But for general BP cleaning, good ole mixture of Ballistol and water- aka "moose milk" works great. The stuff is a water soluble oil, has an acceptable odor at least to me and has been around for a hundred years or so. When on sale it goes for about $8 for a 16 oz bottle then when mixed at 50/50 water is a very inexpensive blackpowder solvent at $8 for 32 oz.:) Great for in-between BP shot cleaning on the range and is chemically supposed to neutralize harmful BP residue acids.
Do you use the ballistol straight or diluted w/water? What about for general cleaning after a smokeless shootin match?
Spray it in at night. Push it out in the morning. Dry patch, DONE
Welcome charger. Glad you found us.
How does WipeOut react with the finish on wood stocks? Do you have to put the rifles muzzle-down? Or does it all stay put in the barrel?
It doesnt react other than to say that its a bit sticky. I leave the chamber slightly higher than muzzle just by a degree or two. Now that you mention it I do tend to bronze brush the chamber fairly well after. When I first started using the stuff I didnt and whilst firing some hot 300 weath one stuck. Not to the point of seperation or anything, but darned sticky extraction, so from then on I've bronzed all traces away. It dont bug bluing either .It can just be lighter fluided off. I like it cause it works over night, and when shooting copper it removes every single smidge of itQuote:
Originally Posted by versifier
After using alot of different bore cleaners over the years, I now use WipeOut". It is a great product and is easy to use.
What are your thoughts on CLP. It was used by the Chair Force (USAF) for a while and they went away from it. Joe
Nothing wrong with CLP. Every so often I happen on some of it. Honestly, I'm not too picky about regular powder solvents. They mostly all do a decent job paired with a good brush and cotton patches. I'm forever ending up with partial bottles of this one or that one that my brother or I pick up in trading, so I just grab whatever's in front and use that. Some day I plan to make up a batch of Ed's Red, too. When I need to clean out copper or lead fouling, then I get picky and go for the Sweets or Rigg.
Food for thought!
Sweets as well as other powder solvents which use ammonia to remove copper fouling have been known to leave microscopic holes in the lands and groves in chrome molly & stainless steel barrels if left on to long. Generally this means any longer than recommended. The holes left behind tend to trap carbon, copper, and lead deposits making it so that the barrel needs to be cleaned more often to maintain it's accuracy. In most rifle barrels a noticeable drop off in accuracy can be seen in as little as 5 to 10 rounds. The shots tend to track up wards and to the right on the target. This is more prevalent in rifles where the barrels were never broken in properly.
Also, if these solvents are allowed to seep into the action of the rifle it will attack and destroy the bedding. We all know what this means for accuracy!
However, there is a real good product on the market that I use that doesn't use the same harmful ingredients as other manufactures and is %100 biodegradable, earth friendly, and is just as effective on copper fouling if not more. Bore Tech Eliminator, you may want to go to their website and check it out. http://www.boretech.com/products/eliminator.shtml
They can explain their product better than I can.
One last thing, when using any solvent that uses petroleum in it's make up should be followed up with a cleaner such as "Windex" to remove it. Petroleum turns to carbon when heated up in a barrel and will trap copper & lead deposits more quickly. I don't know about you guys, but I like shooting my rifles better than I like cleaning them. The less I have to the better. Just my two cents!
M700P
Ballistol is a turn of the century German Coal-chemical discovery. It is beloved by BP'ers mixed 1:1 with water it becomes moosemilk to clean out BP salts and leave a thin film of ballistol to prevent corrosionQuote:
Originally Posted by testhop
Tho it contains no copper dissolving chemicals (ballistol is a petroleum Ester) some say it CAN act like KROIL, which KREEPS and gets under and loosens metal fouling to be removed after a night's soak. I prefer MPro or it's rebadged Hoppe's ELITE name for copper removing
I could write an essay on Ballsitol
yodar
I just use an aerosol called CorrosionX to mist onto the gun and wipe out to an invisible film...It kept a press and dies out in the shed in a back yard from rusting here in FloridaQuote:
Originally Posted by mikepltsgt
yodar
Think I have tried just about every thing that has hit the market over the years, and am currently using the canned foams for jacketed, and Ed's Red for cast the few times I clean after shooting cast. Normally only if I get some leading. On some of the milsurps that I have bought over the years I have used and will continue to use Kroil heavily about 2-3 cleanings in a row befor I then go to canned foam for final, and then lite coat of lite oil, followed by one dry patch befor I take it to the range. That has worked well for me, and made some bbls that looked fair, look a whole lot better when they were throughly cleaned. The other thing I have done is to go almost to non brass bore brushes. Seems kind of funny to clean a jacketed blt fouled bbl with a brass brush and most solvents. Woke up to that fact a few years back when I looked at a brass brush a couple of days after I had cleaned a rifle with a strong solvent, and found it about 25% gone. Bottom line, what works for and satisfies me, may not the next guy. Kind of like the old saying "one mans trash is anothers treasure".
1Shirt!:coffee:
I prefer Break Free CLP but also like Kroil. Break Free rates better that Kroil for rust prevention in a comparison I came across one day.
For lead removal I use Lead Away Gun Cleaning Cloth which is simply amazing. I bought an old 629 44 Mag some years back and the front of the cylinder was a black mess which disappeared with the cloth. I cant say enough about how it works; you just cant use it on a blued gun surface though you can use it in the barrel.
http://secure.armorholdings.com/klee...calcloths.html
me, i like the bore snake. just a few pulls makes the bbl like new
oh, i use rem oil in front of and behind the brush
Just so you know, as much as I like the convenience of Bore Snakes and always carry them in the field for emergencies, they do not do a very good job of getting fouling out of the corners of the grooves. Sometimes the crud holds water and this can cause rust, even if you apply oil over it. I think you will find that if you run a tight patch through after "Boresnaking", what you find will return you to traditional brush/patch cleaning before storage. They do an excellent job on Micro Groove and polygonally rifled barrels, though, and also are great for getting the plastic fouling from wads out of shotgun barrels. I like them a lot, but one should be aware that they have real limitations in conventional barrels with button/forged/cut rifling.