240 weatherby mag

Got the 240 weath mag today and its another tack driver.I cleaned the barrel good before I fired it and three shots with factory rounds cut holes easy at 65 yards.I cant wait to get the dies and load for it.I hate to buy factory ammo but a box of the cheapest factory rounds was the same price as a box of brass.I needed them to break the barrel in slowly anyway.I put a ell cheapo tasco scope on it until my dies and good scope comes in the mail this week.


ANYONE have any 240 mag brass to sell? I tried to ask in the classifies but it didn't post.I have piles of differ brass to trade also in many differ cals.I don't need much brass if this baby is like the 257mag.Ive got about 30 reloads out of the 257 weatherby brass and the are still working great.Best brass that ive ever seen and I push that 257mag very hard.Annealing them and neck sizing is why.Im looking for once fired Weatherby or maybe Norma brass only.

This sucker has a 1-10 twist and hope it will like a 70grn or so bullet instead of a 100.Time will tell and my powder is getting slim.Im thinking 4350,4831,R19 or heck,who knows.ANY THOUGHTS WILL BE GREAT.

Hey Pickle, did you see the picture of my Weatherby Mark V 240? Which model did you end up getting, a Vanguard or Mark V???? I don't have any brass to offer, I only have 4 bx of factory ammo I bought on Gunbrokers, and have not been able to find any anywhere either.

Para,i did not see the pic and didn't know you got one you dirty dog.I bought the S2 because the 257mag shot so good.They had a fancy S2 with a fluted barrel and spider web stock but couldn't see putting $1099 in it.The 257 was $457 last year and the 240 was $519.Had to buy the $58 rounds because they didn't have the $38 ones.All I wanted was the brass and they had 6 boxes of brass for $35 ea.Heck i would have bought 5 boxes of weath $38 ammo if they had them in stock compared to about the same as just the brass.I can get you plenty of brass but they are $35 for 20 pieces in the weath box.Im holding out for a bit because i have people looking for once fired brass and i will share with you.

Cool, bro, thanks! yeah, I got lucky and found this beautiful Mark V Deluxe. I posted a picture with my first post. Here is a picture, check her out. I can't wait to get out and shoot it. :D

Attachment 257

BTW, that is one of the old Redfield TV screen scopes.

Very nice Oscar.I think you will love it.I have the very same scope on my 7mag.It don't gather light like the new stuff does but mine has never lost zero since 1970 when dad bought the rifle and scope new.Them suckers are heck to site in but you could beat it with a 2x4 and never knock it off.Just shot the three rounds that I used the 243 dies to load.Not bad at all,the fouler shot was a tad high and the next two burnt holes at 65 yards.I was going to shoot it at 100 but didn't think my 87grn load would hit the paper.They shot in the same place that the 100grn factory rounds did.

Thanks for the info on the scopes. I remember when I was a kid, my uncle had a Rem 700 and had one of those scope on them, it was the coolest thing back then. BTW, my 240 has the nine lugs bolt, the newer ones only have six, and from what I've read it is the one most people want. I think I got lucky on this one. I can't wait to go out and shoot it.

You will love it.If yours is heavy like mine is then the recoil is like a light weight 243.I will say this,the R19 powder that I just tried seemed to be very promising for accuracy but man that stuff is dirty burning.Im cleaning the barrel again right now and three shots with the R19 was harder to get out than the three factory rounds for sure.

Once the dies get here,i will get the chrony out and start trying differ powders.If the 240 is like the 257,it loves to be pushed very hard for super accuracy.Dont hold back and dump some powder in it.I never say this but your not new to this game and know safety and have a weath mag in the 300 if I remember right.

I tried many differ powders in the 257mag and 7828ssc gave me the FPS that the factory ammo was running with no pressure signs other than a cratered primer.The factory ammo done the very same.The three 240 factory rounds had cratered primers also. Anneal that weath brass every three or four shots and it will last up to 30 or more handloads if neck sized and FLS after about 4 to 5 shots depending how hard you run them.You can neck size the weath mags with a FLS die and that's what I use mainly even though I have a Redding neck die for the 257mag.Just size 3/4 or less of the neck until the bolt gets snug to shut.

If my thoughts need to be deleted than please do so because I know others read this and some browser's might blow a rifle to heck or get hurt.

Hey Pickle, haven't seen you over at the "Bomb Shelter". Have you heard about it? Come visit the family @ http://reloadbench.freeforums.net/

Cool Pickle, thanks for the advice! I need to educate myself on the anneal process, I've never done it. I've read the same thing on the 257, that it shines when pushed hard. Again, thanks! I need to get me some more 7828, because my 300 loves that stuff, and hopefully the 257 will like it too. :D

MMAX,thanks for the info and Blue-Dot sent me the site info also.Yall sure are confusing me to where I need to be and prefer to be on one site only with the old gang instead of jumping around place to place.

Oscar,a number of powders worked great in my 257 with differ grain bullets.Here is what my notes say.R22,R25 and H1000 for the 115grn Berger VLD.R25 gave the highest FPS and all powders was very accurate when slowly pushed to the red line.R19,R22,H4350 and 7828ssc worked great for the 100grn SMK or SGK but 7828ssc gave me about 3470 FPS and the factory weath 100grn spritzer was running at about 3450 FPS.R19 and 4350 was a tad more accurate but was running at about 3240 FPS.If it wasn't for owning a chrony,id never know this.Books mean a lot to me but them darn test barrels that most use is nothing like a factory tube.Heck,you might get way more or way less out of a factory barrel and trying differ things is how I do it.

Annealing brass is very,very easy and wish I tried it many moons ago.I watched some vids on youtube a few times and tried a few differ ways on junk brass to learn.My favorite is to use a deep well socket that the case drops in without a lot of slop and that way your fingers don't get hot.Take a butane torch and heat the neck/shoulder until you see the color starting to change while rotating the case.You don't want to get the body hot and I like only see the color of the brass change no more than 1/4" or so below the shoulder in an even line.You can toss them in room temp water or dump them on a towel to cool.If you use water,deprime them first because the drying process is faster and the water dumps out better with the flash hole acting as a vent.

Im going to do the three 240 cases in a few and will send you some pics of before and after.I can type for days but not very good with words and pics sometimes works better.

Thanks for the info bro, I appreciate you taking the time to pass it on to me. I copy and pasted the info you gave me. I'll give annealing a try with some 308 or 30-06 brass I have laying around. Do you do the annealing in the dark or dim lighting to see the changing color??

I don't do the low light/turning pink thing.I think the case is to hot when it turns pink or a redesh color.Check your e-mail bro and wish I was smart enough to send it in video.Just watching the color of the case change is enough and works great for me.All cases are differ so you got to play alittle with it.That reminds me,i did 200 204's in rem brass but haven't loaded the first one yet.

Hornady has (*or at least HAD) a decent annealing kit available for a while. I think it was about $35 when I bought it about four or five years ago. It includes a couple of devices like sockets that you chuck up in a drill to spin the cases for you as you apply heat, and they also help keep the heat off the case head. It also comes with a small bottle of Tempilaq. You apply a small band of it on the case body about 1/4 inch below the shoulder. It's white and easily visible. As you apply heat, the Tempilaq will change states and (IIRC, it's been a while) become clear. That's your signal to stop heating the case. When I do it, I apply Tempilaq to six or eight cases and count as I apply heat, watching for the stuff to turn clear. After just a few cases I stop applying the stuff and just count. Works like a charm.

Another trick I have heard of but not tried for myself is to use MAP gas instead of propane. It supposedly gets the case neck heated up much faster and does the job before the heat can conduct down to the case head (which I am sure you know is a bad thing---don't want to soften the cases heads!).

Whatever method you adopt, I think you'll find annealing to be well worth the effort. I think you'd be in full agreement, huh picklehead?

RiverRider,YES I DO. Never tried the Tempilaq stuff and figured it was just another cost for learning when just screwing up is cheaper with junk brass.I found out long ago that win,rem,fed or whatever brass is differ in the metals they use and trail/erra(cant spell) is best for learning.

I use the socket method but turn them by hand and thanks for reminding me about putting a cordless or power drill behind them when ran slow.No matter how you do it,the neck tension is better or more constant and cases last WAY LONGER/accuracy is better in some if not all rifles that ive done it for.If the die is set right,doing this makes bullet run out better also because the exspander ball isn't tring to work so hard on HARD BRASS.

This is useless for hunting loads that someone just cares about minute of a barn door at 25 to 100 yards hunting rounds other than the brass life last longer as you and others know.I have a few bottles of Mapp gas for the handheld torch but never tried it out.I just put propane on my shopping list but might try the Mapp before I buy a few bottles.Heck,the bottles of Mapp was free so why spend another $4 for propane.

Thanks for the tip RiverRider and have differ tips for my hand held torch but not sure if they are for Mapp gas.My big cutting torch uses act/ox but have a special Victor head just for Mapp and use it for cutting plate steel when I get over 3/8" thick or so.Just used it last month to cut out a plate for my buds truck so he could make a fifth wheel to pull his tractor.Made a jig out of angle and cut it pretty darn straight to my surprise.After he grinded it smooth,damn ny looked like a plasma cutter did the cut.

I use the low light method and it works well for me. I watch the inside of the case neck, because the glow will be visible there before it is visible on the outside.

IIRC, I haven't had any cases over-annealed by this method. If anything, I have had some under-annealed because I had the torch turned down too much and the heat got to my fingers before the glow was visible.

I am surprised at two such formidable reloaders and shooters buying magnums. Almost everybody knows that magnums are no good. Next thing you will need premium bullets. The 30 06 with 165 grain rules. No premium bullets needed and it kills like the proverbial hammer of Thor.

Its not about the killing honey.Its about waisting money to have fun and have things that most doesn't have so when we die,,some butt wipe can sell it for alittle of nothing. John look at it this way,a 30-06 is a mag compared to the 308.This isn't true but food for thought.Just because the weath's are called mags mean nothing to me and I love power,fast and flat shooting.The 22-250 or such is the same but love pushing 87 to 140grn pills fast enough so they only drop 10 to 4 inches from 180/400 yards and very accurate.The Weath mags do this along with many other carts but I like odd ball stuff if that's what its called.

Now,its time to pick on JOHN.Why was you asking if the 30-06 was enough for ELK if you are so dedicated on the 06? NEVER,NEVER under estimate the power of the 06 or any other cart if the shot placement is right and using the right bullet.You ask me WHAT WOULD YOU SHOOT WITH THE 240? I said anything and didn't think twice.The 240 is nothing but a souped up 243 and with the right bullet for the job at hand will drop anything just as a 460 would.

The 264RLB will drop anything and DOC loves it so much that he retired his 25-06 if I remember correct.Is the 264RLB better than the 30-06? I cant say but he knows when the trig is pulled that the work begins no matter what cal he shoots just as I do.Sorry Doc but had to throw you in the picture.

John, I've liked Weatherbys since I was kid, and remember dreaming of the day I could own one and remember reading and reading the Weatherby ads on gun magazines. Ed Weatherby was a pioneer in his days, and he did things back in those days no one dreamed of doing. I love the style, the looks and the feel of a Weatherby wood stock, and also the cartridge. I'm also a sucker for good looking wood, and most, not all Mark Vs Deluxe come with beautiful stocks. ;) I'm currently reading ""Weatherby. The Man,The Gun, The Legend" and I'm amazed on what Ed did and how he built his company. Oh, and BTW, my 30-06 has killed more deer than any of the rifles in my safe :D and I even took to Africa as my back up rifle.

BTW, I'm picking on you too! I still want to meet you and have a drink with you while I smoke a fine cigar and speak to you in Spanish :D

John you remember your old buddy out here? Hell, I live in magnumville. I love to burn powder and shoot rockets. I relate it to my souped up diesel truck. I don't need 570HP and 800Ft lbs of torque but it sure is fun when I want to put a foot in it.

I have always liked the more power thing. Guess that is why I raced boats with a pair of 1250HP blower motors in them. And the boat did not weigh 3000 lbs LOL So it is only natural that I become the magnum rifle junkie. Besides that, my 300 Ultra mag is pushing a 168 out there at speeds an '06 never heard of. Much less drop at 5 or 6 hundred yards if needed.

Yepper,ive been a fast,flat and accuracy freak since about 1991 when I bought my first 22-250 and 7mag.I was pushing them down gas lines because that was the only place we could shoot 500 or more yards.I will never forget the day when 4 of us went shooting.We found a huge piece of slate that was about 5 inches thick and 3'x3'.We stood it up and walked off 500 and some steps and took turns shooting the rifles at it.The 7mags was hitting it every shot once we figured out where to hold.The 06 and 270 never came close to it.We found a few 270 bullets that skidded across the snow and laying on top.The bullets looked like a brand new bullet other with land/grove marks.Dont have a clue where the 06 hit and tried to tell the boy that a 30-06 wouldn't hit something at 500 yards if sited dead on at 50 yards but he thought it would because his dad said so.

This is when I learned that a 7mag will bust a deers butt at 500 yards easy if sited in at 2" high at 100 yards and use the bottom post in the scope for 450 to 500 yards using a 140grn bullet.Will the 270 or 06 kill stuff at 500 yards? SURE IT WILL but I love rifles that is fast and very accurate.Thats why I have the 204,22-250,6.5rem mag,7mag,257mag,7Rum and bought the 240mag.Got the 300,338 and 375 RUM's also but they are brand new and never even fired them and doubt that I ever do.

Heck,as I get older the 7-08 gets used for hunting more than anything.I still love POWER though.

Mark,i never was much on boats but had one of the fastest street rods around here years ago.1972 chev short bed pickup,402 big block,bds(blower drive system)shot of nitro,488 gears and would that bitch would suck the others up the pipe if they got that close.

I cannot understand why you guys buy all of these unnecesary rifles. Just sell all of the others and buy one good 30 06. It will be all you need from squirrels to moose. You guys are young. Get closer and Mark will tell you that the 06 is plenty for elk. Those things are like cows or horses with big antlers.

There are now at least three sites I like. This is getting silly. Pardon me gotta go see the Star Trek Chicks.