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Am getting ready to refinish a stock.
Have always used linsead oil/ linsead oil, shellac mix finish and was thinking of trying something different this time.
Was thinking of using tru-oil but have never used the product before and am looking for ideas.
Pro or con!
Things to not do?
things to look out for when using it?
A different product completely?
Open to all suggestions (well almost all)!
beekeeper
The stuff I used was called Tung Oil if memory serves me correct.
I really liked it put it on let it dry light buff with 0000 Steel wool.
Did that about 4 or 5 times and it turned out really nice and smooth.
Good Luck Ken.
I also like Tung Oil. Your local hardware store should have "Homer Fomsbys" tung oil. I have used as many as 27 coats on a stock. Took a month, thin coat applied with my fingers, let it dry 24 hrs or more, knock off the shine with 0000 steel wool, make sure no residue is left and apply another coat. repeat the process until the millennium or until satisfied; which ever comes first.
Vote number three for tung oil.
Guesser that stock must look like Satin.
I was happy with what I had done!
Pic's just about need with that.
Ken.
i did an old DBBL BBL 12 in tru oil .... it ended up looking better than the gun , it really brought the grain out and made the finish look deep
The stock that I did 27 coats on was a "banana" style fore end for a Contender Super 14 barrel, custom chambering. I ordered it from Fajen in 1985. I was in the Navy on my last tour of sea duty before retirement and we were in the Indian Ocean for a long time and I had nothing else to do. I drew a crowd of spectators every time I set up to put another coat on. I just left it hanging from the overhead in the Chief's Mess and worked on it on holidays and days we were away from the battle group. Glad I don't have to do it that way any more.
By the way; I've still got it and it still looks good.
danish oil finish gives the same results as tongue oil with an easier application. wet sand.
I too did an old Montgomery Ward SxS 12 ga., as well as a cheap single shot 20 ga. Savage with Tru Oil. The wood came out looking a beautiful honey blonde color....
OK,
I must be missing something.
I tried the tung-oil and it turned into a disaster.
Had to strip,sand and reseal the stock.
Went back to the linseed oil/shellac finish I have always used and it turned out OK.
I followed the directions ( really I did ) and it was a mess.
Is there a secret to using it?
beekeeper
Some folks like to raise the grain on walnut before finish is applied, but I only do it if I am using a hard finish like Tru Oil that fills the pores in the wood. (To do that you wet the stock with clean water after you finish sanding, let it dry, then repeat the sanding with the finest grit you used.) Some like the effect with oil finishes though.
For tung oil or linseed oil, you have to sand to at least 220grit, even finer for fancy or highly figured woods. Before applying oil completely clean all of the sawdust off of the wood. Compressed air is best. You need to let each coat sink in until the surface is completely dry, time varies with the density and porosity of the wood, sometimes as much as 24hrs with later coats. Then you can go over with 0000 steel wool and again completely clean the surface before the next coat goes on. How many coats depends on the wood, your patience, and how much time you want to spend. I like at least three and will often use five or six. Let the last coat dry at least 24hrs before waxing it and let the wax sit on it for an hour or so before buffing it out.
The few times I have used Tung oil, it was on virgin stocks and it turned out fine. The more effort I put into it the nicer it looked. I have never used it as a refinish.
What procedure did you use?
I haven't given up on using it as I have seen some beautiful finishes using it.
I think I did not use it correctly even tho I followed the directions on the can and what I had read about it on a couple of sites.
beekeeper
clean and dry, of course, finely sanded and dusted. I applied one thin coat with my fingers, did not use any rag or sponge or brush, just my bare fingers. Let it dry at least 24 hours depending on temperature and humidity, it can't be too dry, the dryer the better, don't be in a hurry. 4 aught steel wool very lightly, clean the dust off with a clean dry rag. Apply another coat same way and repeat.. In my climate I can do 4 coats a week and get a good turn out. Just don't get in a hurry.
I tried "Linspeed" once, did not like it at all.