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I have a 6 inch 686-3 smith and wesson .357 mag revolver.When I am out plinking I like to take a long shot now and then.I am now useing a 158 grn. RNFP boolit.A friend told me to try a 180 or 190 grn. Boolit to get better accuracy.Will that really help at long range or maybe not.Thanks for any input.
It all depends on if you can find a bullet your revolver shoots well. Frankly, I like l158gr bullets for longer ranges with my revolvers, unless I am hunting deer. I've had good luck with jacketed 125's and 158's, cast 158's (several different profiles) and 180's with powders from Bullseye to BlueDot. It will take some experimenting on your part to find out what works best. No two revolvers are the same, and even if you had the exact same model as your buddy, it is very unlikely both would do best with the same load.
I guess I should know that by know.I think his idea was it would drift less in the wind.I belive I will try a 180 just to see what I come up with.Thanks for putting me on the right track.
I think just the opposite is true with handgun bullets, but I may be wrong.
Some thoughts:
Handgun bullets are generally larger in diameter, heavier, and move at much lower velocities than rifle bullets. Slower loads spend more time in the barrel and will print higher on paper as the bullet clears the muzzle later in the recoil cycle when the muzzle has already begun to rise. This POI shift only adds to the confusion.
Once on its way, the heavier bullet moves slower and spends longer time in flight to the target, so it has more time for the wind to act on it. The lighter bullet moves faster and spends less time in flight, so it has less time for the wind to act on it. Of course at handgun ranges it would take a pretty strong wind to produce a noticable effect under most circumstances, much windier than you'd want to be out shooting in.
With rifle bullets and long ranges, it's a whole 'nuther ballgame, though. The lighter bullet loses energy faster and is more likely to get pushed around, especially as distance from the muzzle increases and velocity falls off. Heavier rifle bullets do buck the wind better as ranges increase.
Personally, I wouldn't worry about it. Give your revolver a selection of different weights and profiles and two or three powders and let it tell you what it likes best, then go with that.
Wow I never looked at it that way.Guess I allways figured pistol or rifle would be about the same.I was allways told most .38 and .357's did pretty well with the 158 grn. maybe I should just stick with it.But it is fun to try new boolits and load combinations.And for hunting I figure the 180 would be better.Here in Ohio you can use .357 in a 6 inch revolver now.I think I will see if you can load a 180 with 2400 powder.
First rule:
Never hesitsate to try a new bullet because you never know unless you do how your gun feels about it. Sometimes you get a very pleasant surprise.
Yes, if you are going to hunt deer with it, I would go with a 180 too. (And I do).
Wow just found a Saeco 180 grn. FP. Boy do they get a price for those.IT is 150 with out handles.At that price I really hope to get good results.Maybe I better go used or maybe a Lee to start with.Well thanks for all the input I now have a good winter project.
eddie the 158 is a great and widely used bullet and does vwery well in the 357.
I have tried 176 grainers and as low as 146 grain but for my hawgsleg the 158 is the best.
Good Luck and happy shooting.
Ken.
Lyman has a 170FNPB #358429 that is a lot less expensive and will do what you want, around $60 w/o handles. Lee doesn't make one heavy enough. Mine is a custom job. You do not want a RN bullet for hunting, you need a FP with a good wide meplat for best energy transfer to the deer.
So far mine seems to like the 158 grn. Linotype cast boolit with 14.9 grn. Of 2400 the best.I am looking for a little more punch at longer range.However it does not do to bad with 125 grn. JHP ammo for accuracy.But I am going to try the 170 grn. That Versifier talked about.
Linotype is much too hard for any hunting bullets. They will shatter like frangible bullets when they hit something solid like a large bone and not penetrate. Just like hunting with match bullets, lots of wounding, and can't be counted on for a clean kill. If they do penetrate and don't encounter anything hard, they will not expand and will impart little energy to the animal. Wheel weights work best for rifle bullets, 1/2 WW's 1/2 pure for handguns. If you only have lino, use 1/4 lino 3/4 pure lead. The softer you can go, the better as the bullets will deform in tissue but still hold together and penetrate properly. It's a tradeoff between velocity and performance. You can't push softer bullets as fast, but you don't need to for them to perform reliably.
I was going to try Lyman #2 that is 50/50 lino lead.I found that mould at MidwayUSA.They have 2 and 4 cavity.I have a bottom pour furnace.Which do you think would be best?I never used a 4 banger before.
I run singles, twos and sixes. The singles and twos are both steel and aluminum, the sixes all aluminum. I have never run a four cav so I really can't say, but the sixes sure put out a LOT of bullets very quickly, a big advantage considering how many handgun bullets I use. My 180 is a two cav. It really depends on how much you are going to shoot - I usually use lighter bullets for target practice so I don't use anywhere near as many of the heavy ones as I do 158's.
Cut your #2 alloy with an equal amount of pure lead and you'll do fine and save money.
I think I will get the 2 cavity mould.It costs less and I really don't shoot as much as I once did.The people around here get nervous if I cut loose with to many rounds.So to keep the peace I limit my shooting.However my friend has a range and once in a while we cut loose a lot of ammo.I am still thinking I may go to a 180 or 190 grn.I feel 200 is to much for a 686.If I had a Ruger I may see it the other way.