View Full Version : 416 mold

Mike in tx
05-30-2015, 12:43 PM
I have paid for a 416 Ruger and at the advertised MV I am thinking seriously of using GC boolits. I will slug the bore (Tom, are U listening) before buying a mold. I have noted that RCBS has a single cavity mold for about $70. Lately I have read in the sister forum that RCBS molds are not what they used to be and besides I think that I would prefer a dble cavity mold. I have looked at several other companies and they are pricey, however less expensive than $60 + for 20 rds of factory ammo. I do want to keep the MV above 2000 FPS or I can use my 450 M. Any ideas would be appreciated.

Mike B

05-30-2015, 05:47 PM
Ask about moulds next door at Cast Boolits. You might be able to find older 2 and 4 cav, or six cav custom moulds in a bunch of different choices. They organize group buys for custom Lee 6cav moulds at realistic prices and even better when you get enough people together to be able to place a large order of over fifty. Some will order several of the moulds for later resale to those who didn't get in on it. I have four such moulds from the days when I hung out over there. But I've never cast a rifle bullet that big except for a muzzle loader out of pure or nearly pure lead. I have put GC's on .430 for a big boomer and that's no different than smaller bullets except the checks are larger and easier to handle with aging fingers and eyesight. A soft lead .440 round ball would make the best slug.

Fitting a gas check depends on the shank size of the bullet, which you measure when you cast one with whatever mould you get in the alloy you've got to cast with. You can get them in different thicknesses, at least in the common sizes. Maybe only Hornady or RCBS makes checks in that size. I do .22, 26, 30, .35, and .430 with checks, except for the smaller sizes always easy to get.

If the gas check shank is a little oversized it's OK because you can start it by hand and tap it on with a brass, aluminum, or phenolic hammer and a block of very soft pine to protect the bullet's nose. Too large and the check may not seat level.Too loose isn't good depending on the thickness of the copper gas check.

When you know the size (groove plus .001-.003") then we can figure out how easiest to size the actual bullets from whatever mould or moulds you get and try. Another they-don't-make-parts-for-my-rememberer-or-I-would-have-remembered question: Do you tumble lube and push-through size or use a conventional lube and base first sizing tool with custom nose distorter? :mrgreen:

05-30-2015, 06:02 PM
I almost forgot, you want something somewhere between WW's and Lyman#2 in hardness for over 2500fps yet will expand at 17-1800 in large game. Flat nose cast kill better and is always my first choice for a single shot, .40cal or any larger diameter RN will always feed smoother than a FN from an internal mag and it will still expand when it hits meat to .45 or better when cast from an alloy within that hardness range and within the practical range considering bullet drop of about 150 yards. But the diameter of the sized bullet to the barrel's groove diameter are the only real numbers that matter. And it could be a sweetheart with the right bullet that you could shoot for fun without getting beat up with light loads and hunt deer and pigs with at open or peep sight ranges with heavier charges.

Mike in tx
05-30-2015, 06:54 PM
I go to Cast Boolits on a regular basis. I will ask on the forum. You are correct that I want something to shoot and not bang me up every time. That does not mean that I will not shoot full load from time to time. Thank you Versifier.

06-08-2015, 10:47 PM
Any luck? You could also try here: http://noebulletmoulds.com/

IDK about current RCBS mould quality, but MS has this one in stock. It is probably one they've had in inventory a few years: http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/Dept/reloading/lead-bullet-casting/rcbs-moulds/-point-417-dia