View Full Version : Leading

02-18-2014, 10:27 PM
Would 38 revolver bullets with gas checks Lead barrels less than plain base bullets?

02-18-2014, 11:11 PM
If there are no throat/forcing cone issues with the revolver, then it depends on the bullet's diameter relative to the barrel's groove diameter, the alloy's hardness, and the pressure level it is loaded to. Quick answer is usually, but you only need them with the hotter .357mag loads. There's no real reason to use a GC in a .38spec load, even the +P's really aren't hot enough to do any gas cutting. OTOH, undersized and overhard bullets will lead up a barrel GC or not. You can push a plain based bullet pretty hard if it is sized correctly, 12-1500fps, even more depending on the bore diameter and the bullet's weight. Gas checks become much more important above 1500 as do harder alloys, but correct bullet diameter for the barrel (+.001-.003 over groove diameter) is still the single most important factor in preventing leading with your cast bullets.

02-18-2014, 11:20 PM
^^^^ what he said! ^^^

HE taught me that!

02-19-2014, 03:54 PM
I like this site. When I ask a question I get an answer. That is the way it SHOULD work. Thanks v.

02-20-2014, 12:32 AM
Nothing like leading a barrel up.Everyone needs the joy of cleaning lead out for days.I leaded my 9mm barrel up bad a few weeks ago because I didn't flare the case mouth out enough for the cast I made.When I seated the bullets,the case mouth was stripping the lube and lead off of the bullets.I shot only 12 of them and cleaned lead out for many days on and off.I picked my brain hard on this one but after telling Verse everything that I could think of,he got me pointed in the right direction.

If its nice this coming weekend,i will make some more to try because the accuracy sucks so far and going to use my new bottom pour pot instead of pouring with a ladle.I have a lot to learn and if it was easy,I WOULDNT DO IT.

02-20-2014, 01:58 AM
I think you'll like bottom-pour, PH.

I forgot this forum exists here. I started a thread on casting for a new-to-me Blackhawk in .44 Mag in the "Revolvers" section.

02-20-2014, 02:42 AM
I ordered the Lyman starter kit a few years back but only made a few 308 bullets and sizer/top punches was messing with my head so I ordered a LEE 9mm tumble lube mold for the 9mm and a PRO4 bottom pour pot.The mold was fine but the pot was torn to heck in shipping.Got midway to replace it and haven't fired it up yet.Just got it a few days ago.

After Versifier got me straight on the stripping lube/lead deal,my accuracy was better but still had a few bullets to tumble threw paper at 14 yards.We think its because of me pouring bullets in the cold with a ladle and getting air pockets or whatever instead of a good pour at the right temp.I need to learn how fast or slow to go also with the sprue plate/mold temp.Heck,i made 134 of the prettiest 9mm bullets ever but they was trash.A sling shot shoots better than they do and love it.I bet before summer is over,i will be able to hit a barn with them:-P.

Its not that bad but not to good either.

02-20-2014, 03:15 AM
I may not have the most expertise, but I have had a certain amount of success casting and I have some suggestions.

You want your mold to fill very quickly. The lower the viscosity of the melt, the better. You don't want the nose of the bullet to solidify before the base is poured. Look at the bullets coming out of your mold. If the edges of the driving bands are nice and sharp, then your metal is filling the mold before taking a set and that's good. If the driving bands are rounded, then you're working with your metal at too low a temperature which causes your mold to run too cool. You need to step up the temperature of your melt and step up the pace of pouring. Once you start getting things running well during a casting session, it becomes a matter of rhythm. With your melt a little hotter, you can be a bit more leisurely. I tend to run this way. If you run your metal a little cooler, then you need to step up the pace a bit to keep your mold at operating temperature.

There's really a lot more art to the whole endeavor than science, in my opinion. But the science can't be ignored or the art suffers.

02-20-2014, 10:40 PM
Going to try posting a picture so if this is screwed up than I will try again.Dont think it will work because my pic is to big.Now I need to figure out how to make them smaller.

02-21-2014, 02:24 PM
Hey Pickle use a scissors to make those pictures smaller in size.

You also can increase your chances of hitting that barn a whole lot if you go inside.

02-21-2014, 05:44 PM
Thanks John,i will try that[smilie=f:

02-21-2014, 11:40 PM
You can always look at it through a scope backwards. That'll make it smaller.

02-21-2014, 11:58 PM
I cast using mostly wheel weights and found that keeping the melt around 750 to 800 degrees seems best for me
Like Clayt said I got to learn some from Versifier
Hey Clayt, Versifier how's the snow
Not much here:mrgreen:

02-22-2014, 01:27 AM
Hey Clayt, Versifier how's the snow...

Not quite as bad as it was that March we headed up to 4thebrz's house and got casting 101 from brx + Vers.

02-22-2014, 02:30 AM
This doesn't have nothing to do with cast but done good today with the 257mag.4 shots in a 15/16 inch group at 400 yards and 3 in under 1/2 at 220 yards.The load was kinda on the hot side and can tweak it a bit but im happy.Its only dropping about 3 inches from 220 to 400 and moving at 3605 fps.I love this rifle and it was a tack driver right out the box.I set the trig down and semi lapped the barrel.Thats all it needed if that.Not sure why I keep messing with it because my loads with the Berger's or SMK's was great from day one.Wish I made cast that would do that.

02-22-2014, 02:42 PM
Pickle you can do it. Keep working at it. Then you can start casting 38.

02-23-2014, 05:54 AM
Now j1, that wasn't nice. Pickle email me the picture and I'll fix 'er up. Probably not today though.

03-13-2014, 09:58 PM
Hey Kirby leave me alone I am jealous of pickle so I pick on him. If I got groups like his I would be bored.