marlin 1894m problem

shooter39629 · 10-28-2009, 09:33 PM

I have a 22 magnum marlin 1894 rifle. The rifle will feed into the chamber but will not eject the empty shell. Is it a problem where the ejector and spring needs to be replaced. I know that I have to remove a pin to change the ejector and spring assembly. Do you think this is the problem. I have contacted Marlin and they have the parts in stock.

Howard

clubkey · 10-28-2009, 10:30 PM

Howard, Is it not ejecting or do you mean not extracting?

Extracting is when the fired case it removed by the bolt mounted extractor from the chamber. That extractor is held in place by a pin.

Ejecting is when the fired case has been removed from the camber by the extractor and the bolt in it's rearward travel with the fired case still attached comes in contact with the ejector and is ejected or thrown clear of the ejection port. On my model 1894's the ejector is held in place by the bolt on the left hand side of the receiver.

shooter39629 · 10-30-2009, 01:28 PM

The case is not coming out of the chamber. It comes back about half way then stops. The extractor is the part that I believe I need. It is pinned to the bolt on the ejection port side.

versifier · 10-30-2009, 03:15 PM

That sounds like you've got it diagnosed, but you should check one thing before ordering parts. Often you can run into problems with rimfires when they are not regularly cleaned and gunk builds up in the rim of the chamber and on the boltface. It often causes extraction difficulties just by itself in addition to making the problem worse when replacement parts are needed. If it were me, the first thing I would do is take it apart and get everything squeaky clean, relube it, and then see if there really is a mechanical problem. I am very neglectful when it comes to keeping my rimfires cleaned and when I get feeding/extraction problems, I can usually cure them with the cleaning kit. You may be better than I about keeping them clean, but it is still the biggest cause of rimfire malfunctions and 90% of the time is the only fix needed.

shooter39629 · 10-30-2009, 05:27 PM

Thank you for the advise I will clean it this weekend and reassembly it and check function to see if its dirty or needs the part.

clubkey · 10-30-2009, 06:57 PM

Howard if the 22 Mag bolt and extractor are anything like the 1894 44 Mag and 357 Mag then I suggest you pay particular attention to the extractor tunnel. Clean that extra good, I pulled all sorts of what I believe was hardened cosmoline outta both of mine and extraction improved dramatically after that. The only down side to cleaning that tunnel is that you do have to drift out the extractor pin and remove the extractor, but it is a pretty simple straight forward operation.

Good luck with your extraction problems, but I would suspect that just as Versifier said your extraction problems are more dirty gun related than mechanical.

shooter39629 · 10-30-2009, 08:41 PM

thank you versifier and clubkey its raining here noe an tonight it will be a good time to clean the rifle. I will let you know if cleaning worked or not monday.

shooter39629 · 11-03-2009, 11:20 AM

The cleaning did the trick thanks for the advice,

Pirate69 · 11-20-2009, 02:41 PM

This is what is neat about these forums. Problems solved, no money spent.

heyyall_watchthis · 12-27-2009, 04:25 AM

Hi Howard,

I'm a newbie here, but I have had quite a bit of experience with rim-fires. One thing that you might check before you order any parts is, look at the edge of the breech, and see if there are any burrs there in the chamber area. These are caused by excessive dry firing.

Here's what happens: When a rim-fire is dry fired, the firing pin tip on some rim-fires, will hit the edge of the chamber and begin to displace the metal by peening it down into the chamber area. Some rim-fire firearms have a firing pin that just stops short of the chamber by a couple of thousandths of an inch, not enough to peen the barrel, but still close enough to strike the rim of the cartridge. These burrs usually won't interfere with the feeding of a cartridge, but when a cartridge is fired, it swells up to fit the chamber, thus locking into the burr. The rear of the cartridge usually doesn't swell as much as the mouth, and when the cartridge is extracted, it will come about halfway out and stick.

There are three options for this, one simple, one not as simple, but still easy, and one that will cost you a few dollars.

The first option, thoroughly clean the barrel and action, then take a small round file, such as a chainsaw file, and carefully insert it into the breech, and run it over the burr a couple of times. Then you spray a little solvent into the chamber area and action to wash out the shavings, then run a wet patch through the barrel and then a dry patch, and fire a round. If it still sticks, but is somewhat easier, then repeat this again until you can freely extract the fired case.

The second option, perform the above actions until you can freely extract the fired case. Then remove the firing pin from the bolt. Clean the pin very thoroughly and clamp into a vise, and with a very fine file, make one or two VERY light passes across the end of the tip. Spray with some solvent, and reinsert the pin into the bolt, and dry fire it. After you do this, look at the edge of the chamber, to see if you have hit the barrel there. If you have, repeat the above steps until you don't have any contact between the firing pin and barrel. I say make some VERY light passes over the end of the tip. You still want to make contact between the rim of the case and the case and the barrel. If you take off too much material, you will get the pin too short to make the proper contact, in which, you will still hit the rim, but you won't hit it far enough to pinch it between the pin and the barrel to cause ignition. If this happens, then you will end up buying a new firing pin and starting all over again.

The third option, you can buy a tool called a chamber iron. This is the "proper way" to do option one, after which you can still do option two. If you don't feel comfortable doing any of these options, then you can always take your firearm to a competent gunsmith.

If you shorten or have the firing pin shortened, then you can do some dry firing practice, although I don't recommend doing very much of this with older firearms, as the steel that the firing pin is made of can be somewhat soft past the tip. When I buy any new rim-fire firearm, the first thing I do is check the fit between the firing pin and the barrel. If it is too long, I dis-assemble the bolt and shorten the pin tip.

I know this may sound a little complicated, but trust me, it's a lot easier than it sounds. Just get a book or look on the web for dis-assembly/re-assembly instructions, and the rest is easy.

I hope this helps.

Buddy

10-28-2009, 09:33 PM	#1
shooter39629 shooter39629 Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: bogue chitto, ms Posts: 17	marlin 1894m problem I have a 22 magnum marlin 1894 rifle. The rifle will feed into the chamber but will not eject the empty shell. Is it a problem where the ejector and spring needs to be replaced. I know that I have to remove a pin to change the ejector and spring assembly. Do you think this is the problem. I have contacted Marlin and they have the parts in stock. Howard

10-28-2009, 10:30 PM	#2
clubkey GunLoad Trainee Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 14	Howard, Is it not ejecting or do you mean not extracting? Extracting is when the fired case it removed by the bolt mounted extractor from the chamber. That extractor is held in place by a pin. Ejecting is when the fired case has been removed from the camber by the extractor and the bolt in it's rearward travel with the fired case still attached comes in contact with the ejector and is ejected or thrown clear of the ejection port. On my model 1894's the ejector is held in place by the bolt on the left hand side of the receiver. __________________ "Let each citizen remember at the moment he is offering his vote that he is not making a present or a compliment to please an individual -- or at least that he ought not so to do; but that he is executing one of the most solemn trusts in human society for which he is accountable to God and his country." --Samuel Adams

10-30-2009, 03:15 PM	#4
versifier Dogs Like Him Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: New Hampshire Posts: 963	That sounds like you've got it diagnosed, but you should check one thing before ordering parts. Often you can run into problems with rimfires when they are not regularly cleaned and gunk builds up in the rim of the chamber and on the boltface. It often causes extraction difficulties just by itself in addition to making the problem worse when replacement parts are needed. If it were me, the first thing I would do is take it apart and get everything squeaky clean, relube it, and then see if there really is a mechanical problem. I am very neglectful when it comes to keeping my rimfires cleaned and when I get feeding/extraction problems, I can usually cure them with the cleaning kit. You may be better than I about keeping them clean, but it is still the biggest cause of rimfire malfunctions and 90% of the time is the only fix needed. __________________ "In my youth," said his father, "I took to the law And argued each case with my wife: And the muscular strength, which it gave to my jaw, Has lasted the rest of my life." - Lewis Carroll

10-30-2009, 06:57 PM	#6
clubkey GunLoad Trainee Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 14	Howard if the 22 Mag bolt and extractor are anything like the 1894 44 Mag and 357 Mag then I suggest you pay particular attention to the extractor tunnel. Clean that extra good, I pulled all sorts of what I believe was hardened cosmoline outta both of mine and extraction improved dramatically after that. The only down side to cleaning that tunnel is that you do have to drift out the extractor pin and remove the extractor, but it is a pretty simple straight forward operation. Good luck with your extraction problems, but I would suspect that just as Versifier said your extraction problems are more dirty gun related than mechanical. __________________ "Let each citizen remember at the moment he is offering his vote that he is not making a present or a compliment to please an individual -- or at least that he ought not so to do; but that he is executing one of the most solemn trusts in human society for which he is accountable to God and his country." --Samuel Adams Last edited by clubkey; 10-30-2009 at 07:00 PM.

BP	Bronze Point	IMR	Improved Military Rifle	PTD	Pointed
BR	Bench Rest	M	Magnum	RN	Round Nose
BT	Boat Tail	PL	Power-Lokt	SP	Soft Point
C	Compressed Charge	PR	Primer	SPCL	Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP	Hollow Point	PSPCL	Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"	C.O.L.	Cartridge Overall Length
PSP	Pointed Soft Point	Spz	Spitzer Point	SBT	Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN	Lead Round Nose	LWC	Lead Wad Cutter	LSWC	Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC	Gas Check

10-30-2009, 01:28 PM	#3
shooter39629 shooter39629 Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: bogue chitto, ms Posts: 17	The case is not coming out of the chamber. It comes back about half way then stops. The extractor is the part that I believe I need. It is pinned to the bolt on the ejection port side.

10-30-2009, 05:27 PM	#5
shooter39629 shooter39629 Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: bogue chitto, ms Posts: 17	Thank you for the advise I will clean it this weekend and reassembly it and check function to see if its dirty or needs the part.

10-30-2009, 08:41 PM	#7
shooter39629 shooter39629 Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: bogue chitto, ms Posts: 17	thank you versifier and clubkey its raining here noe an tonight it will be a good time to clean the rifle. I will let you know if cleaning worked or not monday.

11-03-2009, 11:20 AM	#8
shooter39629 shooter39629 Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: bogue chitto, ms Posts: 17	The cleaning did the trick thanks for the advice,

11-20-2009, 02:41 PM	#9
Pirate69 GunLoad Trainee Join Date: Nov 2009 Posts: 9	This is what is neat about these forums. Problems solved, no money spent.

12-27-2009, 04:25 AM	#10
heyyall_watchthis GunLoad Trainee Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Tennessee Posts: 1	Hi Howard, I'm a newbie here, but I have had quite a bit of experience with rim-fires. One thing that you might check before you order any parts is, look at the edge of the breech, and see if there are any burrs there in the chamber area. These are caused by excessive dry firing. Here's what happens: When a rim-fire is dry fired, the firing pin tip on some rim-fires, will hit the edge of the chamber and begin to displace the metal by peening it down into the chamber area. Some rim-fire firearms have a firing pin that just stops short of the chamber by a couple of thousandths of an inch, not enough to peen the barrel, but still close enough to strike the rim of the cartridge. These burrs usually won't interfere with the feeding of a cartridge, but when a cartridge is fired, it swells up to fit the chamber, thus locking into the burr. The rear of the cartridge usually doesn't swell as much as the mouth, and when the cartridge is extracted, it will come about halfway out and stick. There are three options for this, one simple, one not as simple, but still easy, and one that will cost you a few dollars. The first option, thoroughly clean the barrel and action, then take a small round file, such as a chainsaw file, and carefully insert it into the breech, and run it over the burr a couple of times. Then you spray a little solvent into the chamber area and action to wash out the shavings, then run a wet patch through the barrel and then a dry patch, and fire a round. If it still sticks, but is somewhat easier, then repeat this again until you can freely extract the fired case. The second option, perform the above actions until you can freely extract the fired case. Then remove the firing pin from the bolt. Clean the pin very thoroughly and clamp into a vise, and with a very fine file, make one or two VERY light passes across the end of the tip. Spray with some solvent, and reinsert the pin into the bolt, and dry fire it. After you do this, look at the edge of the chamber, to see if you have hit the barrel there. If you have, repeat the above steps until you don't have any contact between the firing pin and barrel. I say make some VERY light passes over the end of the tip. You still want to make contact between the rim of the case and the case and the barrel. If you take off too much material, you will get the pin too short to make the proper contact, in which, you will still hit the rim, but you won't hit it far enough to pinch it between the pin and the barrel to cause ignition. If this happens, then you will end up buying a new firing pin and starting all over again. The third option, you can buy a tool called a chamber iron. This is the "proper way" to do option one, after which you can still do option two. If you don't feel comfortable doing any of these options, then you can always take your firearm to a competent gunsmith. If you shorten or have the firing pin shortened, then you can do some dry firing practice, although I don't recommend doing very much of this with older firearms, as the steel that the firing pin is made of can be somewhat soft past the tip. When I buy any new rim-fire firearm, the first thing I do is check the fit between the firing pin and the barrel. If it is too long, I dis-assemble the bolt and shorten the pin tip. I know this may sound a little complicated, but trust me, it's a lot easier than it sounds. Just get a book or look on the web for dis-assembly/re-assembly instructions, and the rest is easy. I hope this helps. Buddy