Hi Bob. I get just a little leading at the forcing cone after about 200rds. It doesn't affect the accuracy of the gun at all. Easy shooter too. It doesn't beat your gun up or you either.
Hi Bob. I get just a little leading at the forcing cone after about 200rds. It doesn't affect the accuracy of the gun at all. Easy shooter too. It doesn't beat your gun up or you either.
" Free Men" do not ask permission to bear arms.
Since we are on about .45acp bullets I tried 250 cowboy commercial bullets a month or so ago. I only had a few and wanted to see of they would feed ok and they did! Fed through my Norinco (It feeds anything I swear) and my Para. Next time I buy some of the bullets in Edmonton I'll trrack loads and chrono some and report back here. Recoil was quite mild and there were no pressure signs. Felt like I was throwing bricks down range.
Take Care
Bob
I have been considering buying a mold for my .45 ACP I don't have much cash to throw around so lee molds are usually were I go. Lee has alot of different options out there for the .45 I tend to think I would like a 200 gr bullet but I'm not sure. Also I have a question that may sound a little strange. During a test using a kimber and a ruger .45 auto I found that after hand cycling the bullets in factory loads were being pushed back .020 and sometimes more. If this were to happen with lead it would cut a ring out of the bullet and make a ridge. I guess my question is do you guys have this problem and do you not crimp because of it or do you crimp more to keep it from happening or do you think I'm nuts
Nathan
Casting and reloading newbie
Nathan the .45acp bullet is held in the case by case tension. All you do when you load lead bullets is remove the belling on the case. The 'crimp" if you want to call it that runs between .469 and .471. Lead bullets are sized .452 as opposed to jacketed at .451. You will note a little bulge in most cases after you seat the bullet. This bulge is normal and should not effect loading.
The .45acp cartridge head spaces off the case mouth so you do not want to apply a rolled crimp like you might do for rifle jacketed rounds.
Take Care
Bob
Bob
If you are reading this, thank a teacher; if you are reading this in English thank a veteran.
Thanks Bob I guess I didn't think about the larger bullet haelping keep it from being pushed inward. As far as the crimp I was talking about a tapered crimp but I understand your point. I guess after I get a mold I should just test this like I did with the jacketed rounds and see if I get the same results.
Nathan
Casting and reloading newbie
" I guess my question is do you guys have this problem and do you not crimp because of it or do you crimp more to keep it from happening or do you think I'm nuts"
Yes, yes, no and.... well I don't know you enough to answer that...
Before I start, have you checked the ammo after the gun cycled it "naturally"...? It probably does it too.
My lead bullets stopped moving when I stopped resizing them. They are loaded as cast (about .4535) and neck tension keeps them in place.
I nevertheless had lots of lead shavings in the gun when I got my Norinco (it has a tight chamber and the barrel is hardly throated; I didn't realise I had overdone the crimp when readjusting the seating of the bullet).
I didn't worry until one of these shavings found its way in the diconnector well, "deactivating" the gun....
So in short, as long as the gun feeds it, I will apply the lightest possible crimp on lead bullets.
Jacketed onesa usually don't have a crimp but some are intended for both 45 (acp and Colt) and have one. If you crimp for an auto, make sure the ammo still firmly headspace on the case mouth.
kg
Last edited by kg42; 03-31-2008 at 02:03 AM.
Hmm seems like keeping the bullet fat in a .45 auto will help. Thanks I have a mold meant for a colt that I might try in that case. I haven't let the gun naturaly feed then pulled the round and checked it but if it does it by hand I can only imagine it's worst under opertation. Thanks a ton Kg.
Nathan
Casting and reloading newbie
My molds are LEE's and all 45 are similar in production diameter. I use 45-190-SWC (discontinued?), 45-200-RF, an old 45-255-RF, and my early 200-SWC (H&G 69 copy) was the same.
this one is a 45 252 SWC I checked it and it dropped around .454 so I kinda gave up on it. I could buy the right mold for the amount of a resizer but I'll give it another shot with a little more tin to see if I can get it to work. If your shooting 453.5 then I'm sure I could get this thing to drop around there. Now I have to slug my barrel tomorrow thanks LOL. I do appreciate the help though. Oh and sorry for hijacking the thread
Nathan
Casting and reloading newbie
drkly its not so much your bbl but your chamber you gotta worry about
with each .001 over size you only pick up about 300 psi pressure with cast
i can shoot 225 rnfp, 200swc 230rn or 250 rnfp in all of my 45's colt
acp or auto-rim
i have nottried my 160 rnfp in the acp yet.
and i just size them all to 452 any more.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |