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Thread: Bullets shrink?

  1. #1
    GunLoad Trainee
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    Default Bullets shrink?

    Hello all,
    This is my first post so please be go easy on me. I tried searching but I must be wording the search incorrectly.
    I just cast some 58-440-REAL 58 Caliber (592 Diameter) 440 Grain and they came out great except for one thing. They measure 581 not 592. I know I must be doing something fundamentally wrong to get them to shrink like that but I don't know what. I'm not even sure were the lead came from. I just used what was in the pot. It was my fathers setup and he is not around to ask anymore.
    Any help would be appreciated.
    Thanks in advance.

    Jim

  2. #2
    Spam Hammer fryboy's Avatar
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    ummm why should we not be easy on you ? there's no shame in not knowing and wanting to learn , after all in all things in life were were or are a noob at at least once

    two things will make a smaller boolit ,soft to pure lead and a high mold/pot temp

    one thing to keep in mind about the r.e.a.l. casting , the bottom bands get progressively larger going up towards the top as they were designed to start easy and then engrave the rifling as you set them in the bore and umm we dont know which band you measured :P

    btw ? welcome to the forum jim !

  3. #3
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    I don't remember where I measure the bullet and I am back in the house now. The reloading bench is out in the garage. I will check tomorrow. Thanks for the quick reply.

    Jim

  4. #4
    Dogs Like Him versifier's Avatar
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    Weigh them, too. That would tell you if you have something in the pot close to pure or if it is a harder alloy. Harder alloys are a big NO NO for muzzle loaders - you probably know that but others might not realize it.
    Mic each of the bands.
    If it's pure or nearly so, add 1-2% tin to m/l balls and bullets to insure complete and proper fillout. They will still be soft enough for easy loading, even in revolvers.
    Don't run the pot too hot (you do have to run pure lead a little hotter than alloys) or let the mould get overheated by trying to hurry the process. You can't hurry big bullets and they have a LOT of heat to get rid of each filling.

    Whatever the drop size you get, the best test is still the muzzle of your barrel. The bottom band should start into the bore with little or light pressure, the second band is when you use the short starter.
    They do seem easy to load compared to a MaxiBall or even a tightly patched RB, and IME they do need a fairly heavy powder charge behind them for best obturation, more than you would need for a minnie. REALs aren't for light target/plinking loads, for that nothing beats a prb, but they do perform very well on deer and larger game.
    Last edited by versifier; 11-02-2012 at 05:31 PM.
    "Stand your ground.
    Do not fire unless fired upon.
    But if they mean to have a war let it begin here."
    - Capt. Parker, Lexington Militia, April 19, 1775

  5. #5
    runfiverun runfiverun's Avatar
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    like versifier and fry pointed out the real engraves the rifling just barely on the way down, then is bumped up when fired and grabs it on the way out.
    re-measure the bullet and your bbl you'll see what's what pretty quickly.

  6. #6
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    Thanks all for the responses. We are actually using them in 24ga shotgun brass for use in an 1864 Snider Breech Loading Rifle 577. The nickname for this load is snider chow. The first batch shot very well even being a tad undersized. We are going to try round balls too. Thanks again. This is actually my brothers project. I'm just trying to help him sort thing out.

    Jim

  7. #7
    Spam Hammer fryboy's Avatar
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    somewhere on a couple forums ( including cast boolits ) there's a guy who sizes ( squeezes ) the 50 cal version down for either 50 A&E or 500 S&W ( i forget which ) states great results :P

  8. #8
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    These 24ga shotgun cases are very cheap and an exact fit. They just need to be trimmed to 1.8". We used a tubing cutter with a wood dowel inserted to keep them from collapsing. This batch was $15.95 for 100 and they are primed. Can't beat that. This is not new and is a very cheap way to feed this rifle. This load shoots about 12" high at 100 yds with the site bottomed out. But it did group well all things considered. This was the first time we fiired this rifle and we were able to hit the 12" center with most of the shots. From what other Snider experts have said the round balls will shoot even better. We can't wait to try them next. Thanks again.

    Jim
    Last edited by RdKryton; 11-04-2012 at 03:00 AM.

  9. #9
    Dogs Like Him versifier's Avatar
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    Wow, interesting project. Please keep posting on this one.
    "Stand your ground.
    Do not fire unless fired upon.
    But if they mean to have a war let it begin here."
    - Capt. Parker, Lexington Militia, April 19, 1775

  10. #10
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    I have not forgotten about this thread. We have just not done anything with this project lately. I will update when I have something to add.
    Thanks again for the help,
    Jim

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check        

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