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Thread: 45 ACP sizing die

  1. #11
    runfiverun runfiverun's Avatar
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    Default

    if you are patient you can get antimony ore to alloy in.
    the way i do it is to add tin first, then hold that at about 600* then use a light sprinkling of marvelux. light, lighter, salt shaker light.
    then crush the ore to about 1/8th inch sized pieces, set on top and stir.
    you may need to add a shake more of the marvelux as you go but don't get carried away or it will cover the ore and it won't alloy in.
    patience is key,and keep a slow stir going.
    once you have it all worked in, turn the heat up to about 800* and use a good carbon type of flux.

    now if you have antimonial bars then adding it in and using a carbon flux plus raising the temp and stirring well and fluxing again should get it all in.
    see a pattern there?

    pewter is a good source of tin when you can find it, just be aware that some brands of "pewter" is not really pewter. iirc wilton is another type of metal kirksite or sumthin.

  2. #12
    Grunt
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    Default Sizing die size

    First, what size are the cast bullets? If they are 0.453 or less, just shoot them as-cast.
    This may not be universally true, but I have never found accuracy to improve after sizing a cast bullet, but that could just be me.
    For several years, I used a sizing die that was the same or 0.001" large than the as-cast diameter. Then, I discovered Alox. Just a little Alox in mineral spirits or naphtha on the bullet works great. I have been just tumble lubing since. Order from White Label and you are set.
    You should start as simple as possible and work up to complications if things are "good enough."
    Alloy: For the average .45 1911, the rifling is not very deep. Between that and having to feed up the feed ramp, I find a reasonable hard alloy works best. Again, start with what you have and work up or down in hardness. If the bullet is hard enough to not distort when fed and can engage the rifling, you are set. Not sizing the bullet down also give you a tighter "fit."
    Last edited by noylj; 08-22-2010 at 06:25 AM.

  3. #13
    Grunt
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    I load all my guns with as-cast bullets. The more you size a bullet down, the more damage you do to the bullet. If you must size, I would get a sizing die the same ID as your as-cast bullet's OD. If between 0.451 and 0.452, get the 0.452. Your barrel is at the lower groove diameter, which is usually a good thing.
    If you pick up a noticeable amount of leading in the barrel, diagnose your problem as follows:
    A clue to what is causing the leading is where the leading first begins to appear.
    If it appears near the chamber, chances are that bullet diameter or hardness are the cause. A diameter too small or an alloy too hard will allow high pressure gas to leak past the bullet, which erodes the bullet and leaves leading near the chamber.
    If the leading first appears on the leading edge of the rifling (if you imagine the bullet being pushed through the barrel, you will note that one edge of the rifling does most of the work of imparting a spin to the bullet. This is the edge you see when you look through the barrel from the breech end) the bullet might be too soft or the velocity too high.
    If the leading appears in the second half of the barrel, the bullet is running out of lube. You should see a star shaped pattern of lube accumulate on the muzzle. This is an indication that there is a little excess lube.
    To get the lead out, I recommend an Outer's Foul-Out III rather than an abrasive.
    This may sound like too much, but I gave up casting my own bullets (could not find lead as a reasonable price and it just wasn't something I enjoyed anymore. I buy commercial bullets now.
    Several of them have given me very heavy leading in the forward section of the barrel, indicating that the Blue or Red lube wasn't doing its job (suspect bullet alloy was/is harder than it needed to be and the bullet was not applying pressure to squeeze out lubricant as the bullet went down the barrel.
    I have started to "tumble lube" all my lead bullets in liquid Alox or Xlox (same material, different source). I just pour about 500 bullets into a casserole or chafing dish, squirt a little lube on the bullets, and move them around by hand for a minute or two. I inspect to be sure that all the bullets have a shiny/wet appearance. I let them "dry" for a day on a sheet of wax paper. If you try this, if the bullets are "golden" you have used too much lube. An excess of lube is not only a waste of money, but that excess lube can build up in the seating die. If I had the money, all my seating dies would be from Dillon.
    My next orders for bullets will be for as-cast and non-lubricated.

  4. #14
    GunLoad Trainee Merlin43's Avatar
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    Yep - "As cast" works for a lot of situations. I do size to .001 or .002 over and heat-treat and vary alloys, too - it all depends on the gun and the purpose of the boolit. I like a mix of 92/2/6 for general purpose. Adding Antimony has not been a problem. I got some custom flux from Bill Ferguson and sprinkle crushed Sb & flux on Pb/Sn mixture at about 650F - no vapor problems - the SB actually dissolves, not melts.

    I also mix my own lube's, but tend to the softer side.

  5. #15
    Bullet Caster Bullet Caster's Avatar
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    Now I'm no expert but everyone recommends that you size a boolit at least .001 over the groove diameter. I'll start casting soon for this caliber pretty soon. I haven't slugged my barrel yet as I'm still waiting on my calipers to arrive from the slow boat from China. Would like to have bought American, but a fixed income would not let me do this. It's very hard to reload on a fixed income, but I've sold a few items (shotgun, etc.) to get me started into casting and reloading. I've even had my lee press for over two months now and don't have one reloaded round to show for it. I always have to save up for extras. Everyone has told me to slug the barrel first and then you know what to size to to fit the bore. RS, Bullet Caster
    Jesus said, "I am the way, the truth and the life; no man goes unto the Father but by me."

  6. #16
    Wise
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by slk View Post
    I just picked up the new Remington 1911R1 today. It really is a nice gun. I was shooting amo from 1945 that I have and it all shot great through the thing.

    With the low volosity that these shoot I am wondering if the Lyman #2 aloy is too hard
    If that 1945 ammo was milsurp I hope you used the proper cleaning techniques for corrosive primed ammo. All milsurp U.S. ammo was loaded with corrosive primer until IIRC 1951. Only ammo for the .30 M1 Carbine got noncorrosive primers.

    A friend of mine had a 1911 pistol that was made in the first year of manufacture and he shot corrosive ammo without proper cleaning as literally detroyed what was once a very desireable collector's piece.

    On another note, Lyman #2 alloy will work just fine. Make up a dummy round with the bullet sized to .452" and see of it chambers OK. I'm thinking it should be just fine. I size my bullets to .452" for the .45 ACP and they chamber just fine in three custom 1911s and in a SIG P220. They also work just fine in a Colt Combat Commander which is slated to be my carry piece once I find a comfortable rig to carry it concealed and doesn't try to pull my pants down.
    Paul B.
    POLITICAL CORRECTNESS IS AN OXYMORON PROMULGATED BY MORONS.

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