Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 22

Thread: Silly Question

  1. #11
    GunLoad Trainee
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    7

    Default

    Thanks Run,

    Any suggestions on good places to buy the bulk items you mentioned and which machine to start with.

    Also I take it reloading Glock 22 bullets is not a good idea? I've been reading that is not the best thing to do.

    Thanks Again!!

  2. #12
    Dogs Like Him versifier's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    1,854

    Default

    The brand of press isn't that important, but you should learn on a single stage. Beginners Kits are available from most of the big manufacturers with all of the common tools at significant savings for getting them as a package. I would lean towards RCBS and the Rock Chucker Supreme Master Single Stage Press Kit. You will still need a couple more manuals, a case trimmer, and die sets/shell holders. A copy of The ABC's of Reloading wouldn't hurt, either.

    Also from other mfgrs are Lee Classic Cast Press Kit, Hornady LnL Single Stage Press Reloading Kit, Redding Boss Single Stage Press Reloading Kit, and Lyman Crusher 2 Single Stage Press Kit. They vary in the specific tools that come with them, so it's wise to check them all out and compare, which you could do online at www.midwayusa.com

    Brass from .40S&W Glocks with factory barrels is dangerous to even consider reloading. The case head is insufficiently supported and the brass bulges, seriously weakening it. Aftermarket barrels are available for most Glock models. I had a 1st gen Glock 23 that I could get two loadings per case out of IF I used the lightest possible charge. Anything with a heavier charge or factory ammo was bulged and unusable. Not worth it. I was about to order a new barrel when I was offered an almost new G21 at a very good deal. I got more for the G23 than I paid for the G21 and have been happy shooting .45ACP ever since. If you want to shoot and reload for your .40cal Glock, be safe and get an aftermarket barrel for it.
    Last edited by versifier; 03-31-2009 at 05:06 PM.
    "Stand your ground.
    Do not fire unless fired upon.
    But if they mean to have a war let it begin here."
    - Capt. Parker, Lexington Militia, April 19, 1775

  3. #13
    runfiverun runfiverun's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    soda springs idaho
    Posts
    657

    Default

    versifier covered it in a nutshell right there.
    i think that is why i don't have a 40, and got rid of my taurus 9mm.

  4. #14
    GunLoad Trainee
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    7

    Default

    Is that all Glocks or just first gen? I just recently bought my Glock 22 and was wondering if it needs a new barrel or have they fixed the problem?

    Thanks

  5. #15
    Dogs Like Him versifier's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    1,854

    Default

    The new ones (Gen 3 and later, with the accessory rail) do have a little better case head support, but I do not know that it is enough. There is a little bit more to it than meets the eye. Glocks are designed to function reliably with a wide variety of ammo under combat conditions. To insure positive feeding, the chambers are a bit oversized. This is not a big deal for a military weapon as they don't shoot reloads, and the company not only does not recommend handloads, but the use of them will void the warranty. They are designed to keep soldiers alive, not to keep us loaders happy. This does not stop most of us from reloading for them however. It just means that we have learned to be very careful and really inspect the brass before loading. If it's bulged, you can spot it instantly by rolling a case on a flat surface. I think it would be reasonably safe in a new model if you didn't load them too hot, but OTOH the .40S&W and 10mm develop very high chamber pressures for handguns, and especially since Glocks are not known for fine accuracy, it really makes sense to spend another c-note and get a barrel for it just to be on the safe side. I am happy with their accuracy for carry guns, but I'm not looking for Minute Of Angle, merely Minute Of A$$hole: if I can keep ALL shots on the paper at 50yds relaxed, then I am confident I can keep them all in the torso of a problem at 25yds or less. If I wanted a target pistol, I'd be shooting a custom 1911.

    NOTE: If you want to load any cast bullets, you have to get an aftermarket barrel with conventional cut or button rifling. With most cast bullets, the polygonal rifling of a .40/10mm Glock will lead foul very quickly and cause pressure spikes that can blow the pistol up (and aren't too healthy for the shooter). There are ways around this, but they are for loaders and casters of many, many years experience and I'm not going to discuss them here.
    Last edited by versifier; 03-31-2009 at 10:13 PM.
    "Stand your ground.
    Do not fire unless fired upon.
    But if they mean to have a war let it begin here."
    - Capt. Parker, Lexington Militia, April 19, 1775

  6. #16
    GunLoad Trainee
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    7

    Default Storm Lake Barrels?

    First off thank you for all the answers. And I do have a 3rd gen gun.

    Second can I get a Storm Lake barrel for My Glock 22 that is 9mm and/or .357 and it will shoot those calibers? Without problems?

    They sell conversion barrels for .40 to 357 or 9mm.

    And would these be okay to reload the brass?

    Thanks

  7. #17
    Dogs Like Him versifier's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    1,854

    Default

    If you have a G22, you can also get a .357Sig barrel to go along with the .40S&W, but not a 9mm. You would have to have a different slide to handle the smaller headed case. You could reload anything you shoot in one of the aftermarket barrels, and with cast bullets if you want. Bottleneck pistol cases are a lot more work to load than straightwall cases, though. They have to be lubed and sized like rifle cases.
    "Stand your ground.
    Do not fire unless fired upon.
    But if they mean to have a war let it begin here."
    - Capt. Parker, Lexington Militia, April 19, 1775

  8. #18

    Default

    Greetings
    One pound of powder will not make any boolits.. ya need LEAD.
    For my silly answer...
    Mike in Peru

  9. #19
    runfiverun runfiverun's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    soda springs idaho
    Posts
    657

    Default

    mike ,that was my very first thought also.

  10. #20
    swamp
    Guest

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Rollie View Post
    Firing an automatic how do i get the brass since it ejects it all over?

    I figured reloading my brass would be cheaper.
    I ran into a guy who had a brass catcher he purchased; unfortunately they are hard to find these days so I built my own.









    I made it out of an NRA "T" shirt. The frame is a wire coat hanger and you need all the wire you can get from it. It is one continuous wire; the handle is a loop that goes up and bends off in two directions (to the front and back of the gun). Then they bend up to form the box and where they come together at the top, you bend the wire into the catch basket so as to keep it open to accept the shells as they eject. You then sow fabric together to make a bag of sorts then loop it round the wire and sew it so it stays on. For the handle I covered the wire loop with M/F Velcro to make a comfortable handle that would be adjustable. I used the adhesive of the Velcro to make the handle attach to the wire by sandwiching the wire between the adhesive sides of the Velcro and attached them in such a way as to have the male/female of the Velcro facing each other so complete the opening for your hand.

    It's tough to explain, I hope this helps.

    You can Google "brass catcher" and find some for sale.
    Last edited by swamp; 04-07-2009 at 02:16 PM.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check        

Gunloads.com Sponsored Links