59-66 yugo sks

got rifles today from sog, a sks and another m44 gunsmith special

The 44 is all matching with a good bore, but the mag is bottomed out and its's cracked the wrist right bown the middle.

The sks looks great, got most of the blueing and the stock is very good. The barrel is a little dark with some frosting but no pits. BUT it won't cycle, i removed the spring for the rod the kicks the cairrer. It would cycle far enough to cock but not strip a round. My last rifle i cut a little over 2 inches of the main spring and it would work. Was thinking about putting a shim behind the gas valve to see what happens, then i might try the ball bearing trick on the valve

One of the members at the range had a similar problem a couple of Sundays back. We changed the gas valve with a good working piece, and the problem was solved.

He later told me he found one for 5 or 6 bucks. The malfunctioning one only had just a bit of slight pitting, but apparently enough to cause the feeding malfunction.

I trimmed the springs a little and got it to shoot untill it warmed up.

After a good brushing out i think the sks has to go. Dam thing is accurate but the bore is a lot worse than i first thought.

Got the 44 lined out the mag body would'nt go far enough forward to slip up into the action, it was tilted a little to the left to. After an hour or so of inletting i got it to go.

What should i do about the crack in the wrist? It starts at the tang and runs down tha stock around 3" On one of my sporters i screwed drywall screws into it, Had filed a ring around them so i could snap them off under the wood after i screw them in. But I'm not sporterizing this one, should i use dowles?

Forgot to eat and got sick messing with these rifles ate 3 little choclate bars and got even sicker. was all i could find it's bug day and every thing was out of the cabnets

The wooden dowels seem to be the Arsenal fix. Brownells also has some threaded brass rod you can use.

Drill, put epoxy in the hole, screw rod (pre-determined length, cut, and screwdriver slot cut in base of rod) so it's just under the wood surface. Fill hole with colored epoxy.

I've read about the process and was going to try it on a cracked stock on my .270. But the crack was in the wood just behind the recoil lug and I opted to have my gunsmith fix it. He used a metal bedding compound after some epoxy in the crack itself. MUCH better job than I could have done, and no hole to patch on the outside of the stock.:)