Seeking correct powder

[Helmoot]

Am interested in reloading .45ACP, 9mmLuger, and 38Special, using .452/230gr cast bullet for the .45 and a .356/125gr cast bullet for the 9mm and 38 revolver. Question:: Is it possible to find a suitable single powder that will work in ALL these loads, two being semi auto and one revolver? (I note many powder possibilities with the .45 and 9mm, but few options given for the.38). I am looking for target loads that won't bang the heck out of the pistols and yet will reliably cycle the actions, and I think it would be great to get one powder to accomplish my needs. Casting molds are RNL from Lee, and I was told the .356 mold would work for both my 9mm and the .38 if a crimp were applied to the .38.
Also, I note that several loads given for .45ACP in the latest Lee manual will list the same starting load as the do not exceed load. Example: "Bullseye 4.0 start grains, Never Exceed 4.0grs" and "Unique start 5.0 and never exceed 5.0" I am curious as to why there is not a range between start and never exceed, so a person could safely work up to a suitable load. With the data presented it looks like if I were off by 0.1 gr I would be in trouble.
Any observations/comments regarding the above issues are appreciated.

[fryboy]

no matter what any one manual states it is usually best to look at several , misprints and other factors apply in this , most powder companies offer somewhat limited data , this is always a good spot to look ( for free and since you are on the web anyways ...) in this case it would be alliant since both powders you listed are made by them , tho i hasten to add that one can never have too many reloading manuals
sadly in this case amongst the limited data only the 45 acp is listed with unique with lead boolits and it does show a start and max load ( and also points to why i state that more than one manual should be referenced )
http://www.alliantpowder.com/reloaders/powderlist.aspx?type=1&powderid=3&cartridge=35
you'll prolly have to click "accept" to their terms and conditions to see that page
another thing to consider is that while i like lee's book as well as thier format they in no way write the data they publish - it's taken from other sources , most other reloading manuals are put out by a component ,powder, or reloading tooling manufacturer , those folks do have the labs but sadly they all dont publish manuals , lyman's manuals are pretty good and they finally have a new cast boolit manual , worthy of the investment IMHO , out of the 3 cartridges you listed the 9 mm is the oddball ... the other two are what are termed lower pressure rounds while the 9 mm is deemed a high intensity round ( FWIW my second edition lee does show a very very small difference in start and max loads using unique w/ 125 grain lead boolit the 45 doesnt but that's where the powder company's data i posted comes in handy )
a final thought ? usually unless stated a single listed load is usually max and we should reduce down to start , most powder companies list 10% some 5% and only two powders that i know of state to reduce no more than 3% ( h110 & ww296 )

[runfiverun]

fryboy covered it pretty well.
look at unique to cover all three.
4grs in the 9, 5 in the 38, and 6 in the 45.
seems like i hear a lot of numbers like that being used in those calibers.
bullseye should do them as well as others like aa#2, or#5, red dot, titegroup will too.

as said, alliant has a sight so does hodgdons and i'm pretty sure accurate powder does too.
i'd rather use thier powder data [seein as how they make the stuff] rather than a copy of who knows what components and what data source it was copied from.

[versifier]

Welcome to The Guide.

Yes, Unique for all three. You can try other powders later, but that will get you started. It is one of the most versatile handgun powders on the market. It may or may not be the best choice accuracy-wise for any individual handgun, but you can ask them all their opinions at some point down the road.

And get yourself two more manuals. One of them should be Lyman's Cast Bullet Handbook. Three curret manuals is the least expensive life insurance you can get. You need them to compare and evaluate any potential loads and to double check the safety of loads you find from questionable sources.

The only thing you are ill advised on is that a crimp on your .38spec will make a too small bullet work. It won't, unless you enjoy cleaning lead fouling out of the lands of your revolver. Any revolver load does need a good crimp to insure positive and consistant ignition and to prevent the bullets backing out of their cases under recoil and binding the cylinder, but a cast bullet MUST be larger than its jacketed cousins or you'll get leading and poor accuracy.

Lee makes a great 158grSWC tumble lube bullet that will do the trick for you, though, and it comes in both 2cav and 6cav. Usually they do not even need to be sized out of my mould (they drop around .359"), but there can be a good deal variation in Lee moulds, not to mention the results from casting with different alloys.

You will want your 9mm's to run from .357-.358" for proper obturation, so you will need to mic them and make sure. Softer alloys are more forgiving, too, as they obturate more easily. That is a fairly good mould you have for 9mm, too.

I have the Lee .45 230RN and my .45's really like it. It will feed in just about any .45ACP or GAP without a hiccup. I size at .451" as I have one pistol with a tight chamber that won't feed anything larger in diameter, and I also use the same very soft alloy for them, too, 4 or 5:1 Pure lead:WW's.

Let us know how you make out.

[Helmoot]

Thanks for the input. I've ordered a Lyman's pistol and revolver manual after conferring with a reloader and documenting that the loads presented in the Lee manual might be typos.(The info certainly was different in the Lymans for the same caliber/weight, and did indeed provide for some gap between start and max loads, so I am thinking the Lee manual might be more useful as a doorstop).
I was told the .356 bullet mold could throw a little larger and therefore would be sufficient with the .38 provided I did not size the bullet, and of course did a roll crimp. It will be fun to fool with this throughout the summer to see if I have to take the next step with a different mold and/or sizing.
This is a great site.

[fryboy]

the lee is much much better than a door stop but i take no any one manual as gospel , at least two sources should be looked at (and lee's does have alot of good data) when i find two with differences i always try to err on the side of caution and am always free to work safely up
as for the .356 mold ...maybe maybe not it will depend upon the as cast boolit , if too small it's possible it will lead the barrel , a harder alloy will cast a lil bit bigger but a softer alloy will bump up easier with the pressure curve ( kind of a catch 22 so to speak - either can be bad or good ) you wont know until you've cast a few tho and it is possible to either lap the mold out a bit or beagle it if needed to get a fatter casting , i'll be looking forwards on your adventure !

[GH1]

Bullseye will work, as will AA#2 and probably #5. I've used Bullseye in .38 and
.357, and I've used #2 in .380, .38, and .357.
I don't know if .356 bullets will work in the .38 though. Obviously it'll go down the bore OK, and if your pressures are low you might not lead too severely. However, I can't help but wonder what your accuracy will be like with the bullet fitting so loosely in the bore.
Then again, if you're just doing some close range plinking you might be OK.
As far as manuals only listing one load, that's obviously the max. You could probably reduce your loads by 10% to start off with.
I would go to powder manufacturers websites and get some recommendations, and if that doesn't help you, contact the powder company.
I've had very good results by e-mailing both Alliant and Accurate with my questions.
Their staff ballisticians are eager to help you out.
GH1