M-1 Garand

[Pegasus1]

Bought a Century Arms M-1 Garand some time and I need to find some information on reloading for it. I am concerned about the action and I just want to work up some loads so that I can safely shoot the rifle and not damage the action.

[runfiverun]

4895 is the powder of choice for the garand.
it is the proper burn rate for the operating rod, and has enough volumn for the gas operated rifles, like the m-1 and the m-14.
i like it in all the military rifle calibers. like the 303,7&8mm mauser,308 etc.

[versifier]

Ditto, but powders like IMR3031 and 4064 will work without problems, too. The Sierra manual has some explanations about loading for semiautos, and I believe the Hornady manual has even more info and special loading data specifically for the M1 and M1A/M14. I have never bothered to go any farther than 4895 for either rifle though. No sense trying to fix what works.

[Pegasus1]

Thanks for the help, do you guys have any idea what kind of velocity I should load them for? I want the action to cycle, but I don't want to do any damage to it. I too use a lot of 4895 for my rifle loads.

I researched my Speer reloading manual and it and I didn't find and special loading data for the Garand. All that I found in it were loads for semi-auto rifles and I wasn't sure if those were to hot or not.

[versifier]

The GI load was 50gr of IMR4895 (NOT H4895) for the 150gr Ball round. Keeping in mind that this was a NON-canister powder (not quite the same as what you can buy) and that charge is at or above red line today in most manuals, I would (and did) start at the bottom and work up until the groups tighten up. A 3-4" 100yd group is doing good for a milsurp Garand, so don't expect yours to be a tack driver, but sometiimes you get a pleasant surprise.

Like I said above, you ought to get one or both the Hornady and Sierra manuals. You need a minimum of three current manuals to safely evaluate any loads for a rifle or chambering new to you in case two of them don't agree. Given that the data is compiled and inputted by human beings, having only one manual can be problematic if there is an error. Extra manuals are the best deal on life insurance available today.

[Pegasus1]

The load that I have had a lot of success with in my 30-06 rifles uses 47 grains of IMR 4895 behind a 180 grain Hornady SP. I had never given any consideration to buying other reloading manuals, but now I see where some of my extra Christmas money needs to go.

As for the rifle itself, if I get it to shoot 3-4" groups at 50 yards that would be fine with me. I am more concerned with it functioning safely right now, then I will worry more about dialing it in to make it more accurate.

Again thanks for the ideas and help.

[runfiverun]

have you tried a 150 gr bullet yet?
in my m-14 i tried the heavier bullets and it quickly lost interest in my efforts.
the 165's were okay, but it really dotes on the 150 range.
i never tried anything other than 147 fmj bt's in my garand, and i believe i was right there in the 47 gr range of imr powder also.
i don't think i have ever shot anything but 42 grs of 4895 in any of my 308's
except one load of h-414 in my bolt rifle ,which i didn't much care for.

[versifier]

Both the Garand and the M14/M1A were designed around 147/150gr FMJ bullets. Some have had success with 125's and 165's, but experiments with lighter or heavier bullets usually are not very satisfactory. Personally I would say you'd be asking for trouble loading 180 jacketed as they are outside of both weapons' design parameters. The exception is with cast bullets where 150-190gr with slightly reduced loads work pretty well in both rifles as long as the alloy is hard enough to avoid barrel leading. (I'm not even going to start on the urban legend about not using cast bullets in them because they supposedly clog up the gas systems except to say that the whole thing is a load of manure.) You can find some interesting discussions next door at CastBoolits if you want more info.

[Pegasus1]

It looks like I need to buy some lighter grain 30 caliber bullets to reload in my rifles. I have also ran some 180 grain bullets in my CETME/H&K 91. The way it sounds I shouldn't have done that. Again these were some pussycat loads that I don't think did much damage to my rifle if they did any.

Can you recommend a bullet manufacturer/ supplier that would have some of these bullets?

[versifier]

I usually get them from the surp suppliers. Try these links, but remember you have to check with them every few weeks as their offerings change constantly with availability. Bartlett & HiTech are also excellent sources of mil brass and all three sell surp powders.

Jeff Bartlett http://www.gibrass.com/
Wideners http://www.wideners.com/
HiTech http://www.iidbs.com/hitech.zkb

[runfiverun]

also, if you can find them.
winchester makes an excellent 147 gr fmj that works well and is usually a decent price in bulk.
it's also very close in profile to the mili fmj's i have found on occasion.
they crimp in the right place too.

[7of7]

I have two garands..I use 150 grain bullets, and don't worry to much about damaging either one.. the reason, is I purchased an adjustable gas plug..(gas plug (http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=777146))
This way, I adjust the plug so that the rifle does not cycle, work up the load, and then make adjustments so the rifle cycles. This way, you can use any powder you like to, along with any bullet weight you like also.
Of course, while making adjustments for cycling, you also have to look at the affect on accuracy. It may change.
If you go back to milsurp ammo, it may or may not cycle..as the pressures would be different.
The way I view it, is that it is cheap 'insurance'. (cheaper than replacing damaged parts, or a rifle..)